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BOOK   O  F 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


Flow  on  forever,  in  thy  glorious  robe 
Of  terror  and  of  beauty  !  God  hath  set 
His  rainbow  on  thy  forehead,  and  the  cloud 
Mantles  around  thy  feet.    And  he  doth  give 
The  voice  of  thunder  power  to  sp^ak  of  llini 
Eternally — bidding  the  lip  of  man 
Keep  silence,  and  upon  thy  rocky  altar  pour 
Incense  of  awe-struck  pTaisc. 

(See  puge  '.)2,) 


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BY  HORATIO  A.  PARSONS,  A.  M. 


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Third  Edition. 


.C  AR  E  F  U.L  L  Y»R  i;V  ^.S  f^,  A.N^  Jl^Y^L  A  11  G  F>P, 

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BUFFALO: 
OLIVER  G.  STEELE 


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1836, 


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Entered  according  to  tlie  act  of  Congress,  in  tlic  year  1836,  by 

OLIVER  O.  ST1:ELE,  2'roprietor. 

in  the  Cl.«rk'B  Oflice  of  tlie  District  Court  of  the  Nortliern  Dis- 
trict |)f  tiic  State  of  New- York. 


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ADVERTISEMENT. 


.inn.  — 

The  writer  of  the  following  pages,  having  been  a  resi 
dent  at  the  Fallfc  a  number  of  years,  and  familiar  with  the 
whole  scenery  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  as  well  as  with ' 
all  the  interesting  localities  in  the  vicinity,  and  having 
omitted  no  means  of  obtaining  correct  information  in 
regard  to  the  various  facts  stated,  feels  free  to  offer  this 
manual  as  a  correct  and  sufficient  guide  to  visiters,  in 
which  they  will  find,  within  a  small  compass,  an  ample 
fund  of  information  respecting  the  Falls  and  vicinity. — 
Having  no  particular  or  private  interest  to  serve,  he  has 
aimed  to  give  an  impartial  description  of  the  different 
objects  of  interest  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  and  to  do 
justice  to  all  persons  concerned.  The  plan  of  publishing 
such  a  manual  was  formed  in  the  year  1827,  and  most  of 
the  materials  were  then  colh  jd  and  arranged  ;  but  for 
various  reasons  it  was  not  published  till  the  year  1834, 
though  it  was  the  first  book  of  the  kind  that  had  ever 
been  published  respecting  the  Falls.  From  an  intercourse 
ii'^ith  a  vast  number  of  visiters  at  all  seasons  of  the  year, 


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he  has  been  enabled  to  ascertain  what  kind  of  information 
they  most  need,  and  has  greatly  enlarged  the  present 
edition  in  order,  if  possible,  to  afford  ample  information 
in  relation  to  every  thing  connected  with  the  Falls  and 
vicinity,  about  which  inquiries  would  naturally  be  made. 

ttlF  New  editions  of  this  Manual  will  be  published  from 
time  to  time,  as  they  may  be  needed,  containing  notices 
of  incidents  and  such  additional  information  as  may  be 
useful  to  the  travellen  and  tourist. 

Niagara  Falls f  1836. 


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CONTENTS. 


«,, 


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Page. 

Advertisement, 5 

Directions  to  Travellers,        .        .        .        .        .  13 

Niagara  River,  its  Sources  and  Islands,            .        .  18 

The  Rapids, 23 

Goat  or  Iris  Island, 26 

The  Falls,  Terrapin  Bridge  and  Tower,        .        .  30 

Biddle  Stair  Case,  iSlolus'  Cave,  &c.        .        .        .35 

The  Ferry, 39 

Canada  Views, 40 

Welland  Canal, 43 

Brock's  Monument, 44 

Burning  Spring, 45 

Stair  Case,    ........  46 

Museum, 47 

Summer  and  Winter  Scener}'^,       ....  47 

River  below  the  Falls,      .        .        .        .        .        .  51 

Remarks  of  Hennepin,  Tonti,  Hon  tan,  &c.          .  52 

Curiosities,  &c 66 


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Mineral  Spring, 67 

Whirlpool, 08 

Devil's  Hole, 71 

Tuscarora  Indians, 73 

Battles, 75 

Bridges, 76 

Minerals,  &c., 77 

Incidents, 78 

Hermit  of  the  Falls, S2 

Village  of  Niagara  Falls, 86 

Number  of  Visiters, 91 

Routes  and  Charges, 96 

Reed  and  Matheson's  Description  of  the  Falls.      .  dS 

Tables  of  Distances, 109 

Distances  on  the  Erie  Canal,        ....  112 


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BOOK  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


DIRECTIONS     TO     TRAVELLERS    AFTER    THEY 
ARRIVE     AT     THE     FALLS. 


A  few  directions  may  be  necessary  to  enable  you  to 
save  time  and  see  the  Falls  to  the  best  advantage.  Ar- 
riving on  either  side,  it  is  recommended  to  ladies  to  put 
on  leatiier  or  otlier  stout  shoes,  and  to  gentlemen  to  take 
with  them  an  umbrella  to  guard  against  the  mist.  If 
you  arrive  on  the  American  side,  turn  to  the  right  around 
either  of  the  Hotels,  and  proceed  a  few  rods  to  the  bridge 
that  leads  across  the  rapids  to  Bath  and  Goat  Islands; 
you  will  stop  at  the  toll  house  on  Bath  Island  when  you 
pass  over,  record  your  name  in  the  register  and  pay  twen- 
ty-five cents;  which  entitles  you  to  visit  all  the  islands 
with  their  appendages  as  often  as  you  please  during  your 
visit,  or  for  a  year,  without  any  additional  charge.  And 
if  you  choose  to  cross  in  a  carriage,  you  pay  no  more. — 
Proceed  next  to  Goat  Island,  where  you  will  find  guide- 
boards  directing  you  to  all  the  most  interesting  places 
and  objects  around  the  island.     Follow  the  gravel  walk 


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BOOK    OF 


Dirt'ctioiirt  to  Tfuvcllers. 


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at  the  right,  down  to  the  cascade  or  centre  fall  and  cross 
a  narrow  bridge  to  Luna  Island,  from  the  farther  corner 
of  which  you  will  have  the  best  and  most  splendid  view 
of  the  Falls  on  the  American  side.  Retracing  your  steps 
to  the  gravel  walk,  proceed  next  to  the  Biddle  Staircase; 
descend  that  without  fail,  as  you  will  there  have  a  mag- 
nificent and  much  admired  view  of  the  two  entire  Falls, 
standing  between  them,  and  an  opportunity,  if  the  wind 
be  favorable,  of  passing  a  considerable  distance  behind 
either  sheet,  with  the  tremendous  flood  pouring  over  you 
from  a  height  of  150  feet.  From  the  foot  of  the  stair- 
case, turn  first  to  the  right  and  go  to  the  Cave  of  the 
Winds  under  the  centre  fall,  and  in  returning,  follow  the 
path  to  the  great  Cresent  fall. 

Reaching  the  top  of  the  island  again,  proceed  to  the 
farther  corner,  whore  you  will  find  the  Stone  Tower  for- 
ty-five feet  high  with  winding  steps  to  the  top,  and  also 
the  Terrapin  Bridge,  from  both  which  places  you  will 
have  decidedly  the  best  and  most  impressive  views  of  the 
Falls,  that  can  be  Iiad  from  any  position.  Here  you  will 
realize  power,  grandeur,  sublimity,  immensity, — no  pen 
or  tongue  can  describe  it. 

Pursuing  your  way  with  a  view  to  go  entirely  round 
the  island, —  as  you  ought  without  fail  to  do,  inasmuch 
as  you  will  thus  get  a  much  better  view  of  the  rapids  and 
surrounding   scenery  that  can  be  obtained  any  where 


THE     FALLS. 


15 


Directions  to  Travellers. 


€lse, —  you  will  proceed  up  to  a  beautiful  cascade,  where 
under  the  shelter  in  part  of  a  projecting  rock,  you  can 
have  an  opportunity  to  bathe  in  the  sparkling  foam  of 
Niagara. 

*'  This  is  tlie  purest  exercise  of  health, 
The  Idnd  refresher  of  the  summer  heats." 

A  rustic  bridge  was  here  to  give  you  access  to  the  Moss 
islands,  which  are  well  worthy  a  visit.  Just  above 
these  islands  you  have  the  very  best  view  of  the  rapids, 
that  is  presented  from  any  place  about  the  Falls.  Pro- 
ceeding round  the  head  of  the  island,  you  cross  the 
place,  nearly  opposite  the  saw  mill,  where  a  number  of 
human  skeletons  have  been  dug  up, —  supposed  to  be  the 
former  site  of  an  Indian  burying  ground. 

Tf  your  visit  is  protracted  at  the  Falls,  you  ought  to 
pass  around  and  through  Goat  Island  by  the  different 
paths  in  order  to  observe  its  picturesque  beauty  and  rea- 
lize its  thousands  attractions.  You  ought  also,  if  time 
permit,  to  visit  the  site  of  old  Fort  Schlosser,  the  mine- 
ral spring,  the  whirlpool,  the  Devil's  Hole,  &c.  to  all 
which  places  the  coach-drivers  will  conduct  you,  and 
give  such  information  and  directions  as  you  may  need. 

In  order  to  cross  the  river,  proceed  from  the  bridge  to 
the  staircase  near  the  edge  of  the  Falls,  at  the  foot  of 
which  you  will  have  a  very  near  view  of  the  highest  fall 
and  a  most  charming  prospect  of  the  entire  Falls. 


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Dirwtiniis  to  Trjiv-lkTS. 


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"  Abovp,  uroiiiid,  iH'iicath,  aiiiazt'uicnt  all! 
,       .  Terror  un  J  f,'lory  joined  in  tlieir  I'Xtrt'int's  1" 

Take  a  look  from  the  window  of  tlie  Staircase  and  you 
will  realize  the  truth  of  Shakspoare's  description, 

"  How  fearful 
And  (li/zy  'tis  to  cast  one's  eyes  so  low! 

I'll  look  no  more, 
liOst  my  l)rain  turn  and  the  deficient  sight 
Topple  down  iica.llong." 

In  crossing  the  river,  not  the  least  danger  need  be 
apprehended;  it  is  a  perfectly  safe  and  most  delightful 
excursion,  and  persons  sometimes  swim  across  and  find  it 
a  real  luxury.  The  time  occupied  in  crossing  is  ordina- 
rily about  eight  minutes,  and  the  ferriage  is  lb'5  cents 
from  May  to  November,  and  25  cents  from  November  to 
May.  If  3  ou  have  trunks  or  other  luggage  to  be  trans- 
ported from  either  side  to  the  other,  the  ferrymen  will 
convey  them  safely  at  a  reasonable  charge.  The  river 
is  here  76  rods  wide  and  250  feet  deep. 

Having  crossed  the  river,  proceed  up  the  bank  by  a 
carriage  road,  to  Fido's  elegant  and  inviting  confection- 
'  ary  establishment,  where,  if  you  choose,  you  can  refresh 
yourself  with  ice  cream  and  other  luxuries, — and  thence 
%  to  Table  Rock,  where  you  will  find  a  spiral  staircase, 
from  the  foot  of  which  you  can  pass  153  feet  behind  the 
sheet  of  water.     This  staircase  is  under  the  care  of  Mr. 


,i|Br. 


THK    FALLS. 


17 


Directions  to  Travellers. 


Starkey,  who  furnishes  dresses  and  a  guide  for  visiters, 
who  wish  to  go  behind  the  sheet;  he  also  keeps  a  read- 
ing room  and  a  neat  and  inviting  shop  of  refreshments. 

From  Table  Rock  you  have  one  broad  and  imposing 
view  of  the  whole  Falls,  and  much  of  the  scenery  of  the 
rapids  and  islands.  Many  visiters  prefer  this  view  to 
any  other;  but  it  is  generally  conceded  that  the  view 
from  the  Terrapin  Bridge  is  superior, — it  combines  more 
of  the  beautiful  and  sublime. 

In  ascending  the  bank  from  Table  Rock  to  the  Ho- 
tels, you  will  have  a  fine  and  extensive  view  of  the  sur- 
rounding country,  and  can  visit  the  burning  spring, 
Chippewa,  Lundy's  Lane,  Brock's  Monument,  the  Wel- 
land  Canal,  &c.  as  you  may  have  leisure  or  inclination. 

If  you  arrive  first  on  the  Canada  side,  proceed  directly 
to  Table  Rock,  and  when  satisfied  with  looking  at  the 
amazing  scene  there,  both  from  above  and  below,  follow 
the  path  to  the  Ferry  a'nd  cross  to  the  other  side, and  then 
visit  Goat  Island  as  directed  above. 

To  those  who  wish  the  services  of  a  living  guide  in 
their  rambles  and  excursions,  Mr.  S.  Hooker,  on  the 
American  side,  offers  himself;  his  office  is  near  the 
Eagle  Hotel.  From  a  residence  of  twenty  years  at  the 
Falls,  he  is  enabled  to  conduct  visiters  to  all  the  objects 
of  interest  in  the  vicinity,  and  to  give  them  much  valua- 
ble information. 


' jiJuf  '-.^  .<:& 


h 


18 


% 

BOOK    OF 


Niagara  River.  .  .Its  sources. 


m 


NIAGARA      RIVER,      ITS     SOURCES, 
AND     ISLANDS. 


t 


w 


li  i 


Niagara  River,  upon  whicJi  the  Falls  are  situated,  re- 
ceives the  waters  of  all  the  upper  lakes,  as  Erie,  St.  Clair, 
Huron,  Michigan,  Superior,  and  a  number  of  smaller 
ones.  The  most  distant  source  of  Ihe  Niagara  is  proba- 
'bly  the  river  St  Louis,  which  rises  1250  mil^s  north-west 
of  the  Falls  and  155  miles  west  of  Lake  Superior;  it  is 
1200  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean,  and  falls  551  feet 
before  it  reaches  the  lake. 

liake  Superior  is  459  miles  long  by  109  wide,  and  900 
feet  deep:  it  is  discharged  into  Lake  Huron  by  the  Strait 
St.  Mary,  60  miles  in  length,  making  a  descent  of  45 
feet.  This  lake  receives  the  waters  of  about  forty 
rivers.  Lake  Michigan  is  300  miles  by  50  and  about  900 
feet  deep,  and  empties  into  Huron  through  the  straits  of 
Mackinac  40  miles  in  length.  Connected  with  Michigan 
on  the  south-west  side,  is  Oreen  Bay,  100  miles  in  length 
by  about  20  in  width.  Lake  Huron  is  218  miles  by  180, 
and  900  feet  deep,  and  is  discharged  into  Lake  Erie, 
through  the  rivers  St.  Cla:!!"  and  Detroit,  90  miles, 
making  a  descent  of  31  feet.  Lake  Erie  is  290  miles  by 
63,  and  120  feet  deep,  and  564  feet  above  the  level  of  the 


*4#; 


iLlrlfc; 


Tllil   FALLS. 


19 


Tlie  Great  Lukes. 


sea.  It  empties  itself  through  Niagara  river,  35  miles  in 
length,  into  Lake  Ontario,  making  a  descent  of  334  feet, 
viz:  from  the  lake  to  Schlosser,  12  feet;  thence  down 
the  rapids,  52  feet;  the  perpendicular  Falls,  164  feet; 
from  the  Falls  to  Lewiston,  104  feet;  and  thence  to 
Lake  Ontario,  two  feet. 

Laks  Ontario  is  180  miles  by  31,  and  500  feet  deep, 
and  discharges  itself  through  the  river  St.  Lawrence 
into  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  710  miles  distant. 

The  four  inland  seas  above  the  Falls  —  as  the  great 
Lakes  may  pro]>erly  be  called — with  the  hundreds  of 
rivers,  great  and  small,  that  flow  into  them,  cover  a  sur- 
face of  150,000  square  miles,  and  contain  nearly  half  the 
fresh  water  on  the  surface  of  the  globe.  From  these 
sources  of  the  Niagara,  some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the 
immense  quantity  of  water  that  is  constantly  pouring 
over  the  Falls. 

Niagara  River,  as  it  flows  from  Lake  Erie,  is  about 
three -fourths  of  a  mile  in  width,  and  from  twenty  to 
forty  feet  deep;  foy  three  miles  it  has  a  rapid  current, 
and  then  it  becomes  calm  and  smooth  till  within  one  mile 
of  the  Falls.  *      # 

"  So  oalm  ; — the  waters  scfirccly  seem  to  stray, 
And  yet  they  gli^e  like  liappiness  away." 

Five  miles  from  the  lake  the  river  begins  to  expand  till     ^J 
it  becomes  more  than  eight  miles  in  width,  measured  * 


«0 


BOOK   OF 


Grand  Inland  .  .  .  Arrarat. 


across  Grand  Island,  and  embraces  befbre  it  reaches  the 
Falls,  about  forty  islands.  Of  these  the  largest  are 
Grand  and  Navy.  The  latter,  belonging  to  Canada, 
contains  304  acres  of  good  land,  and  terminates  near 
Chippewa  point.  Grand  Island  commences  five  miles 
from  the  lake,  is  twelve  miles  in  length,  measured  round 
its  edge,  and  from  three  to  six  in  width,  and  terminates 
three  miles  above  the  Falls,  containing  17,384  acres. 
The  land  is  well  timbered,  rich,  and  productive.  As  the 
<^eepest  channel  of  the  river,  forming  the  boundary  line, 
runs  on  the  west  side,  this  island,  until  recently,  has  be- 
longed to  the  state  of  New- York;  but  in  the  year  1833, 
a  company  from  Boston  purchased  nearly  the  whole  of 
the  Island,  and  have  recently  erected  upon  it,  near  the 
site  of  the  famous  Jewish  city,  Arrarat,  (projected  in 
1825  by  Major  Noah,  of  New- York, )  a  steam  grist  mill, 
and  a  saw  mill  150  feet  square,  containing  15  sets  or 
gangs  of  saws.  This  mill  is  intended  to  saw  ship  stuff 
of  every  description,  from  20  to  70  feet  in  length,  and 
will  probably  be  one  of  the  most  extensive  establishments 
of  its  kind  in  America.  The  name  of  their  village  is 
**  White  Haven,"  situated  nearly  opposite  Tonawanta, 
where  the  Erie  Canal  locks  into  the  Niagara  river.  It  is 
approached  by  a  ferry  across  the  river,  here  100  rods  wide, 
and  has  increased,  since  Nov.  1833,  from  one  solitary 
family  to  more  than  fifty;  it  has  also  many  work-shops, 


iH  '"•  i- 


% 


It     ' 

THE     FALLS. 


91 


White  Httvon.  .  .Timbtr  Conipnny. 


a  store,  a  school  house,  a  commodious  wharf  several 
liundred  feet  long,  aud  a  spacious  dock  made  of  piles,  for 
storing  and  securing  floating  timber.  *^ 

It  is  understood  thattiiey  intend  to  employ  constantly 
several  hundreds  of  men  with  a  competent  number  of 
teams,  for  the  purpose  of  preparing  and  sending  to  the 
eastern  citias  a  large  quantity  of  ship  timber.  In  the 
spring  of  1834,  the  timber  for  three  large  merchant  ships 
of  400,  45'J,  and  700  tons  burthen,  prepared,  and  every 
piece  fitted  to  its  place  during  the  previous  winter,  was 
sent  by  canal  boats  to  Albany,  and  thence  by  slo(^8  to 
Juoston. 

One  thing  connected  with  the  founding  of  this  village 
and  the  progress  of  the  Company's  business  on  this 
island,  deserves  special  commendation:  no  ardent  spirits 
of  any  kind  have  been  used,  and  no  man  who  drinks 
spirits  can  find  employment  there,  even  for  a  single  day. 
Much  success  to  their  enterprise. 

In  July,  1759,  during  the  old  French  war,  two  large 
French  vessels,  in  danger  of  being  taken  by  the  British, 
were  burnt  and  sunk  in  what  is  called  Burnt  Ship  Bayi 
near  the  lower  end  of  this  island.  Some  parts  of  them 
are  still  visible;  and  some  years  since,  a  party  of  men,  by 
raking  the  river  at  that  place,  secured  a  number  of  tons  of 

'     -  i 

iron. 


ps, 


^■: 


;iaAAi:->:.I;._.vv>:^  "!  ■'t:X''.\.  v-^^.-- i, '^; 


22 


ROOK    OF 


i 


OtluT  Islands  .  .  .  The  rise  nnd  full  of  the  iNlftgurn. 

Among  the  other  iHlands  in  this  river,  the  following 
are  perhaps  most  deserving  of  notice,  viz:  Bird  Island, 
between  Buffalo  and  Fort  Eric;  Squaw  Island,  contain- 
ing 131  acres,  opposite  Black  Rock;  Strawberry  Islands, 
containing  about  100  acres;  Beaver  Island  of  30  acres; 
Rattle-snake  Island  of  48  acres;  Tonawanta  Island,  op- 
posite the  creek  and  village  of  that  name,  containing  69 
acres;  Cayuga  Island  near  the  New- York  shore,  four 
miles  above  the  Falls  containing  about  100  acres;  Buck- 
horn  Island,  near  the  lower  end  of  Grand  and  near  Navy 
Island,  containing  146  acres;  and  a  number  of  smaller 
islands,  in  and  immediately  above  the  rapids,  besides 
Goat  Island,  &c.  hereafter  to  be  described. 

One  feature  of  the  Niagara  river  somewhat  peculiar  is, 
that  neither  the  snows  of  winter,  nor  the  evaporation  of 
summer,  neither  rains  nor  drought,  materially  affect  it; 
its  waters  flow  on,  full  and  clear,  perpetually  the  same; 
except,  as  has  long  been  observed,  they  have  a  small 
gradual  rise  and  fall  about  once  in  seven  years.  The 
cause  of  this  is  unknown,  but  is  undoubtedly  to  be  sought 
in  something  affecting  the  upper  lakes.  Indeed,  it  has 
often  been  asserted  by  travellers,  that  these  lakes  have 
septennial  fluxes  and  refluxes;  it  is  also  asserted  by  some, 
that  they  have  small  diurnal  tides.  This,  however,  may 
reasonably  be  doubted. 


-I|> 


THE   FALLS. 


The  UnpiilH. 


THE     RAPIDS. 


I  must  here  apprise  the  reader,  that  it  were  vain  to 
attempt  a  graphic  description  of  the  Falls  and  surround- 
ing scenery;  for  they  so  immeasurably  exceed  every 
thing  of  the  kind  elsewhere  seen  or  even  imagined,  that 
no  power  of  language  can  give  any  adequate  idea  of  them 
to  those  who  have  not  been  present  to  hear  and  see  for 
themselves.  Capt.  Basil  Hall  remarks,  "All  parts  of 
the  Niagara  are  on  a  scale  which  baffles  every  attempt 
of  the  imagination,  and  it  were  ridiculous  therefore  to 
think  of  describing  it;  the  ordinary  means  of  description, 
I  mean  analogy,  and  direct  comparison,  with  things 
which  are  more  accessible,  fail  entirely  in  the  case  of 
that  amazing  cataract,  which  is  altogether  unique." 

"  All  the  pictures  you  may  see,"  says  J.  J.  Audubon, 
' '  all  the  descriptions  you  may  read,  of  these  mighty 
Falls,  can  only  produce  in  your  mind  the  faint  glimmer 
of  the  glow-worm,  compared  with  the  overpowering 
glory  of  the  meridian  sun."  '*^ 

The  scenes  which  are  sketched  in  the  following  pages, 
may  be  considered,  therefore,  only  as  a  very  faint  out- 
line, or  shadow,  of  the  reality. 


24 


BOOK    OF 


The  llapidg.  .  .  Itoar  of  the  Fulls. 


m\  1*' 


Below  the  termination  of  Grand  and  Navy  Islands, 
the  river  is  compressed  to  the  width  of  two  and  a  half 
miles;  and,  pressing  forward  with  accelerated  motion, 
it  commences,  about  three- fourths  of  a  mile  above  the 
Falls,  a  rapid  descent,  making  within  that  distance  a 
slope  or  succession  of  chutes,  amounting  to  fifty-two  feet 
on  the  American  side,  and  fifty-seven  on  the  other. — 
The  tremendous  and  beautiful  rapids  thus  formed,  con- 
stitute a  very  important  part  of  the  grand  and  unparal- 
leled curiosities  of  this  river.  Were  they  in  any  other 
place,  they  would  of  themselves  be  considered  as  a  scene 
of  great  beauty  and  sublimity,  equalled  only  by  the 
ocean  when  lashed  into  foam  and  fury  by  the  angry 
tempest.  Many  visiters  express  themselves  more  de- 
lighted, and  unexpectedly  filled  with  wonder,  at  seeing 
the  Rapids,  than  the  Falls  themselves. 

'*  Through  sparkling  spraj'  in  thundering  clash, 
Tlie  lightnings  of  the  water  flash, 
In  awful  whiteness  o'er  the  shore, 
That  shines  and  shakes  heneath  the  roar." 

*  Two  miles  above  the  Falls,  in  approaching  from 
Buffalo,  you  come  in  sight  of  the  white  crested  breakers, 
more  than  a  mile  in  width,  dashing,  foaming,  and  tossing 
from  ten  to  thirty  feet  above  the  main  current;  and  at 
the  same  time  hear  a  low,  monotonous,  tremendous  roar; 
and  as  you  approach  nearer,  feel  a  tremulous  motion  of 


-■»^ 


"W 


THE    FALLS. 


25 


Roar  of  tlic  Fulls.  .  .  Distiince  which  it  has  been  heard. 

the  earth.  The  distance  at  which  this  roar  can  be  heard, 
varies,  with  the  state  of  the  atmosphere,  ordinarily  from 
five  to  twenty  miles,  though  it  is  sometimes  distinctly 
heard  at  Toronto,  fifty  miles  distant.  And  yet,  in  the 
village  near  the  Falls,  it  is  scarcely  heard  at  all.  The 
niigt,  arising  like  curling  smoke  and  separating  as  it 
rises  into  masses  of  fantastic  clouds,  is  seen  at  the  dis- 
tance of  from  three  to  fifty  miles.  This  distance  depends 
upon  the  state  of  the  atmosphere,  the  height  of  the  sun, 
and  the  force  and  direction  of  the  wind.  This  mist 
sometimes  rises  in  immense  masses,  and  sometimes  in  a 
pyramidal  shape  to  a  very  great  height,  and  is  an  object 
of  great  curiosity,  especially  in  the  morning  soon  after 
aun-rise.  It  then  sparkles  like  diamonds,  and  becomcH 
illumina  ?d  with  the  most  brilliant  prismatic  colors. 

"Nifigara!  Niagara!  I  hear 
Thy  tumbling  waters.    And  I  see  thee  rear 
Thy  thundering  sceptre  to  tjje  clouded  skies  •, 
I  (Jce  it  wave  —  I  hear  the  ocean  rise, 
And  roll  obedient  to  thy  call.    I  hear 
The  tempest-hymning  of  thy  floods  in  fear-. 
The  quaking  mountains  and  the  nodding  trees —    .. 
The  reeling  birds  —  and  the  careering  breeze  — 
The  tottering  hills,  unsteadied  in  tliy  roar;  >** . 

Niagara!  as  thy  dark  waters  pour, 
One  everlasting  earthquake  rocks  thy  lofty  shore." 


From  Table  Rock,  you  have  an  extensive  and  pic- 
turesque view  of  the  rapids;  but  they  are  seen  to  much 

3 


f 


2G 


BOOK    OF 


if.Al 


Gout  Island. 


better  advantage  from  the  siiore  half  a  mile  above,  and 
especially  from  the  different  sides  of  Goat  Island.  From 
the  south-west  corner  of  this  island,  just  above  the  Moss 
islands,  you  have  by  far  the  best  view  that  can  be  taken 
from  any  place.  There,  is  too,  an  amazing  rush  of 
water  between  the  Moss  islands,  the  force  and  sublimity 
of  which  may  be  conceived  but  not  described.  Reader, 
go  there,  and  you  will  be  fixed  for  a  time  in  mute  asto- 
nishment. 


GOAT,     OR      IRIS     ISLAND. 


^•f\ 


•a, ' 


Goat  Island,  is  so  called  from  the  circumstance,  that 
about  the  year  1770,  Mr.  Steadman,  then  resident  at 
Schlosser,  contrived  by  some  means  to  put  a  few  goats 
upon  the  island;  but  its  more  appropriate  and  adopted 
name  is  Iris  Island.  It  commences  near  the  head  of  the 
rapids,  almost  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  and  extends  to 
the  precipice,  dividing  the  Falls  into  two  sheets.  It  iy 
half  a  mile  in  length,  and  one-fourth  of  a  mile  in  width, 
and  contains  seventy-five  acres  of  rich  and  heavy  tim- 
bered land.  Situated  in  the  midst  of  the  rapids  and  sur- 
rounded by  them  on  three  sides,  this  island  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful,  fascinating  and  romantic  places  in  the 
world;  it  affords  a  dehghtful  retreat  for  **  the  lunatic, 


THE    FALLS. 


27 


Scenery  .  .  .  KarlieHt  Dates. 


and 


the  lover,  and  the  poet/'  to  indulge  in  their  meditations. 
Fanned  by  gentle  breezes,  thickly  and  delightfully  sha- 
ded, free  from  noisome  insects,  encircled  by  a  neat  walk, 
and  presenting  to  tlie  visiter  a  great  variety  of  views  of 
the  Falls  and  rapids,  lie  feels  a  reluctance  on  leaving  it, 
and  is  wont  to  exclaim  with  Montgomery, 

"  If  God  Imth  made  this  world  so  fair. 
Where  sin  and  deatli  abound  •, 
How  beautiful,  beyond  compare. 
Will  Paradise  be  found! " 

or  with  Eve,  in  the  language  of  Milton, 

"  Must  T  thus  leave  thee,  Paradise? 

These  hapi»y  walks  and  shades, 

Fit  haunt  of  Gods?" 

About  two-thirds  of  this  island  are  still  covered  with 
tall  trees,  many  of  which  are  clothed  with  a  magnificent 
drapery  of  ivy  and  other  creeping  plants,  and  many  have 
been  killed  by  reason  of  the  countless  names  that  have 
been  cut  into  their  bark.  So  strong  is  the  desire  of  man 
for  immortality,  that  few  can  resist  the  temptation  to 
leave  some  memorial  of  their  visit  to  the  Falls.  The 
earliest  genuine  date  of  any  name  yet  found,  is  in  the 
year  1769,  though  names  have  been  cut  within  a  few 
years  and  dated  back  as  early  as  1745;  but  on  the  rocks 
near  the  Falls,  on  the  American  side,  there  are  names 
chiselled  out  and  dated  1711, 1726,  1745,  &c.     On  Goat 


28 


BOOK    OF 


Iiuiiiiii  Rciiiaiits.  .  .Garden. 


Island,  a  number  of  human  skeletons  have,  within  a  few 
years,  been  dug  up;  supposed  to  be  the  remains  of  In- 
dians buried  in  a  former  age,  and  many  more  are  doubt- 
less now  resting  there  in  undisturbed  repose.  There  may 
they  rest,  in  nature's  solitude,  till  the  Great  Spirit  calls 
them  hence.  On  this  island  is  found  a  very  great  variety 
of  wild  plants,  shrubs  and  flowers;  nearly  two  hundred 
different  species,  some  of  them  very  rare,  have  already 
been  discovered.  Of  the  Tillium  Grand'tfiora,  sixteen 
varieties  are  found  here.  The  seeds  of  plants  and 
flowers,  from  the  shores  of  all  the  upper  lakes  and  rivers, 
have  probably  been  washed  upon  this  island.  Some 
years  since,  a  number  of  deer  were  put  upon  this  island, 
which  soon  became  quite  tame;  but  visiters,  in  order  to 
see  them  jump,  would  occasionally  frighten  them,  when 
they  would  immediately  betake  themselves  to  the  rapids, 
and  thus  were  carried  over  the  Falls,  until  all  were 
finally  destroyed. 

When  the  present  proprietor  shall  have  completed  the 
spacious  garden  recently  laid  out,  in  which  he  designs  to 
cultivate  all  the  fruits  that  will  grow  in  this  mild  and 
genial  climate,  and  shall  have  finished  the  many  other 
improvements  which  he  has  projected,  no  other  place, 
perhaps,  in  the  world  will  present  attractions  equal  to 
-those  of  Goat  Island.  The  approach  to  it  is  from 
the  American  side,  by  means  of  a  bridge  of  the  most 


t 

< 
1 


THE    FALLS. 


29 


Toll  House  .  .  .  Ccutre  Fall. 


difficult  and  hazardous  construction,  which  extends 
from  the  shore,  28  rods,  to  Bath  Lsland,  and  thence  16 
rods  farther,  to  Goat  Island. 

There  are  many  other  beautiful  islands  situated  among 
the  rapids  of  this  river,  a  number  of  which,  as  Bath, 
Ship,  and  Luna  are,  and  all  the  rest  might  be,  connected 
with  Goat  Island  by  bridges,  and  afford  the  most  charm- 
ing and  impressive  views  of  the  surrounding  scenery. 
On  Bath  Island,  which  is  24  rods  in  length,  containing 
about  two  acres,  is  the  Toll  House,  kept  by  Mr.  A.  B. 
Jacobs,  who  also  furnishes  visiters  with  warm  and  cold 
baths.     Let  it  be  remembered,  that 

"  Even  from  the  body's  purity,  the  mind 
Receives  h  secret  sympathetic  aid." 


On  this  island  is  situated  Porter's  extensive  Paper  Mill, 
three  stories  high,  in  which  may  be  manufactured  yearly 
10,000  reams  of  paper.  ,    . 

Luna  Island,  about  30  yards  in  width,  stands  directly 
on  the  precipice  near  Goat  Island,  and  divides  the  stream, 
II  part  of  which  forms  the  most  splendid  cascade,  perhaps 
in  the  world.  This  is  about  twenty-two  yards  in  width, 
and  is  sometimes  called  the  ''Centre  Fall,"  to  distin- 
guish it  from  the  other  two  main  sheets.  Approaching 
this  island  from  the  foot  of  what  is  called,  from  the  shape 

of  the  path,  the  "  Hog's  back,"  visiters  have,  from  the 

3* 


If 


no 


BOOK    OF 


Best  view  of  the  Aiiicrii'aii  Fall. 


north-west  corner,  a  much  better  view  of  the  American 
Fall  than  can  be  obtained  fr«m  any  other  place.  This 
fall,  Hkrt  the  other,  has  evidently  changed  its  shape  with- 
in a  few  years,  and  has  now  nearly  as  much  of  a  resem- 
blance to  a  horse  shoe  as  the  other. 

There  are  ten  other  islands  in  the  rapids  besides  those 
above  mentioned,  containing  perhaps  from  one  fourth  to 
an  acre  each,  to  all  or  any  of  which  bridges  might,  pro 
bably,  be  constructed. 


THE     FALLS  —  TERRAPIN     BRIDGE   AND     TOWER. 

The  broad  river,  as  it  comes  thundering  and  foaming 
down  the  declivity  of  the  rapids,  at  length  leaps  the 
cataract,  three-fourths  of  a  mile  in  width,  and  falls,  as  it 
were,  to  the  central  caves  of  the  earth.  The  mind, 
filled  with  amazement,  recoils  at  the  spectacle,  and  loses 
for  a  moment,  its  equilibrium.  The  trembling  of  the 
earth,  the  mighty  rush  and  conflict  and  deafening  roar 
of  the  water,  the  clouds  of  mist  sparkling  with  rainbows, 
produce  an  effect  upon  the  beholder,  often  quite  over- 
powering; and  it  is  only  after  the  scene  has  become 
somewhat  familiar  to  the  eye,  the  ear,  and  the  ima:gina- 


THE   FALLS. 


31 


Height  of  the  Falls. 


tion,  that  its  real  grandeur  and  sublimity  is  properly 
realized  and  felt. 

"  To  sit  on  rock)^,  t«^  muse  on  flooi!  and  foil, 
To  slowly  trace  the  forest's  sliady  scene, 
Where  things  that  own  not  man's  dominion  dwell, 
And  mortal  foot  hath  ne'er  or  rarely  been  ; 

****** 

****** 

Alone  o'er  steeps  and  foaming  falls  to  lean  ; 
This  is  not  solitude;  'tis  but  to  hold 
Converse  with  nature's  charms,  and  see  her  stores  unrolled." 


ming 

the 

as  it 

nind, 

oscs 

If  the 

roar 

■)OWS; 

over- 
come 
gina- 


The  wa  ter  on  the  American  side,  as  ascertained  by 
frequent  measurement,  falls  164  feet,  and  on  the  Canada 
side,  158  feet.      The  fall  on  the  Canada  side,  embracing 
much  the  largest  channel  of  the  river,  is  called,  from  the 
shape  of  the  precipice,  the  "Crescent  or  Horse-shoe 
Fall,"  and  near  to  this  a  bridge,  called  the  Terrapin 
Bridge,  has  been  constructed,  300  feet  in  length,  from 
Goat  Island,   and  projecting  ten  feet  over  the   Falls. 
Near  the  termination  of  this  bridge,  in  the  water,   and 
on  the  very  verge  of  the  precipice,  a  stone  tower,  forty- 
five  feet  high,  with  winding  steps  to  the  top,  was  erected 
in  the  year  1833,  from  which,  or  from  the  end  of  the 
bridge,  the  effect  of  the  Falls  upon  the  beholder  is  most 
av/faiiy  sublime  and  utterly  indescribable.     The  sublime, 
arising  from  obscurity,  is  here  experienced  in  its  greatest 
force.     The  eye,  unable  to  discover  the  bottom  of  the 


■;^V■:^J'  ia....:J»! 


.X..: 


n2 


BOOK    OF 


DeHi'riptiv*^  FiXtract. 


Falls,  or  even  to  penetrate  the  mist  that  «ecnis  to  hang 
as  a  veil  over  the  amazing  and  terrific  scene,  gives  place 
to  the  imagination,  and  the  mind  is  histinctively  elevated 
and  filled  with  majestic  dread.     Here  is 

"All  tliat  cxpuiulrf  the  spirit,  yi-t  nppalH." 
**  It  seems  to  be  the  good  pleasure  of  God,  that  men 
shall  learn  his  Omnipotence  by  evidence  addressed  to 
the  senses  as  well  as  the  understanding,  and  that  there 
shall  be  on  earth  continual  illustrations  of  his  mighty 
power;  of  creation  we  are  ascertained  by  faith,  not  by 

i 

sight;  the  heavenly  bodies,  though  vast,  are  distant,  and 
roll  silently  in  their  courses.  But  the  earth  by  its  qua- 
kings,  the  volcano  by  its  fires,  the  ocean  by  its  mountain 
waves,  and  the  floods  of  ^iiagara  by  the  majesty  of  their 
power  and  ceaseless  thunderings,  proclaim  to  the  eye, 
and  to  the  ear,  and  to  the  heart,  the  omnipotence 
of  God.  From  these  far  distant  sources  and  multitu- 
dinous dispersions.  He  called  them  into  the  capacious 
reservoirs  of  the  north,  and  bid  them  hasten  their  accu- 
mulating tide  to  this  scene  of  wonders,  and  for  ages  the 
obedient  waters  have  rolled  and  thundered  liis  praise. 

"In  beholding  this  deluge  of  created  Omnipotence,  the 
thought,  how  irresistible  is  the  displeasure  of  God, 
rushes  upon  the  soul.  It  requires  but  a  little  aid  of  the 
imagination  to  behold  in  this  ceaseless  flow  of  waters, 
the  stream  of  his  indignation,  which  shall  beat  upon  the 


THE    FALLS. 


33 


Towrr  and  Hrid^ifc.  .  .S(»lar  Bow, 


[,  the 
^Jrod, 

the 
Iters, 

the 


wicked,  in  the  gulf  below  the  eternal  pit;  and  in  the 
cloud  of  exhalation,  the  smoke  of  their  torment,  which 
ascendeth  up  for  ever  and  ever.  With  these  associa- 
tions, all  is  dark,  terrific  and  dreadful,  till  from  the  midst 
of  this  darkness  and  these  mighty  thunderings,  the  bow, 
l)rilliant  type  of  mercy,  arises,  and  spreads  its  broad  arch 
over  the  agitated  waters,  proclaiming  that  the  Omnipo- 
tence which  rolls  the  stream  is  associated  with  mercy  as 
well  as  with  justice." 

"  And  such  was  that  rainbow,  that  beaiitif\il  one, 
Whose  arch  was  n-fraction,  its  key-stone — tlie  sun ; 
A  pavilUon  it  seemed  with  a  Deity  graced, 
And  justice  and  mercy  met  there  and  embraced." 

The  solar  and  lunar  bows,  the  river  above  and  below, 
and  indeed  the  whole  scenery  of  the  Falls  and  rapids, 
appear  to  better  advantage  from  this  point  than  from  any 
other;  and  no  visiter  on  either  side  should  presume  to 
leave  the  Falls  without  visiting  this  tower  and  bridge. 
From  the  top  of  the  tower  especially,  he  will  realize  the 
force  and  beauty  of  the  following  description,  which  with 
the  change  of  a  single  word,  applies  admirably  to  this 
matchless  scene  : 

"  The  roar  of  waters !  From  the  hecidlong  height 
Niagara  cleaves  the  wave-worn  precipice ; 
The  fall  of  waters !  rai)id  as  the  light, 
The  flashing  mass  foams  shaking  the  abyss ; 
The  hell  of  waters !  where  they  howl  and  hiss, 
And  boil  in  endless  torture ;  while  the  sweat 


.■.^.•■-.,-*.,i 


:m 


ROOK  or 


p' 


Lunar   How. 


Of  their  grrut  iiKony,  wriiiiK  out  iVoni  tliin 
Tlii'ir  IMil«*K('(lion,  curln  round  tlir  rockH  of  Jet 
That  Kird  (hr  ^ulC  nround,  in  pililfHN  horror  him. 

And  mnuiilH  in  Hpruy  thi'Hkirii,  iindthrncr  iiKiiin 
Rrturnd  in  iin  unrrnHinK  Nhowrr,  whirh  round 
With  itN  unrnipticd  rioud  of  ftcnth'  ruin 
Is  mi  rtcrniil  April  to  tiii<  ground, 
IMukiuK  it  all  one  nnrrald;  —  how  profound 
T\\o  K»lf!  —  and  how  the  Kiantrlrnu'ut 
From  rock  to  rook  IcapN  witli  drIiriouH  hound, 
<-ruHhinR  tho  rlin'><,  which  downward  worn  and  rrnt, 
AVith  hiH  n<'rc<*  footntops,  yield  in  chuNniH  a  fearful  vent. 


f- 


"♦*»»*       Lookback! 
Lo!  where  it  oonirs  like  an  nernity, 
Afl  if  to  Hwcep  <lown  all  thingn  in  itH  track, 
CharniinK  the  eye  with  dread, —  a  inntchlenH  cataract, 
Horribly  beautiful!  but  on  tlie  ver^c, 
From  side  to  sidr,  iH'neath  the  ^littering  morn, 
An  Iris  Hits,  amid  the  infernal  NurKe, 
Like  llopn  upon  a  death-bed,  and,  unworn 
Its  steady  die«i,  while  all  around  in  torn 
Hy  the  distractnl  waters,  bears  serenes 
Its  brilliant  hues  with  all  their  beam*  unshorn. 
Resembling,  'mid  the  torture  of  the  scene. 
Love  watching  Madness  with  unalterable  mein." 

The  lunar  bow,  seen  at  night,  in  the  time  of  full  moon, 
appears  like  a  brightly  illuminated  arch,  reaching  from 
side  to  side,  and  is  an  object  of  great  attraction, —  espe- 
cially as  the  world  presents  only  a  few  other  places  where 
fiuch  a  bow  is  ever  seen, 

"  Hung  on  the  curling  mist,  the  moonlight  bow 
Arches  the  perilous  river." 


;;:«' 


« 


TIIK    KAM.M. 


:u> 


Itomniltlc  Inciilrtit  .  .  .  Ulilillr  HtutrciiMc. 


(tout.  IhIiiihI,  in  a  iiiooiiliKlit  nif(ht,,  Ih  the  renort  of 
^roiii  iiiultiliidcM,  vvltoro  tiiuy  find  iiicniitelvuN  introduced 
tu  a  Hccno  of  uurivdllod  beauty  and  magnificcnno.  Tho 
rapidH  at  nucIi  a  time  Hparklo  witii  phoNphoric  Nplendor, 
and  natun;  around  vvcarH  an  irreMiHtible  charm  of  lovcti- 
MOHH.     TJiero  Ih 

"  A  silviT  liKlit,  wliir.li  ImllnwinK  trri*  iiiiil  tower, 
Mliciiri  iH'uuty  hikI  (lrc|i  HolYncHM  o'it  tin;  wliolr." 

Tiie  writer  once  had  tli(>  pleaHtire  of  joininjr  u  lovely 
couple  in  nuirria^o,  a))oMt  1 1  o'clock  on  one  of  the 
hrijrhteHt  ni^htH  ho  liaH  ever  known,  in  full  view  of  thiH 
cMchantiiifr  Hcene,  and  then  of  takin/r  a  romantic  excur- 
Hion  with  the  party  around  the  iHlan<l.  ThiH  waH  poetry 
indeed;  it  wan  one  of  thoHe  bright  and  verdant  oaneH 
Home times  met  with  in  the  journey  of  life.  May  all  their 
days  bo  eciually  brijrjit  and  their  rambloH  equally  .pleasant. 


BIDDLK    STAIRCASE A'.OLVH      CAVK. 

At  the  lower  end  of  Goat  Island,  about  one-third  acroHH 
it,  a  stair-case,  erected  in  the  year  1829,  at  the  expense 
of  Nicholas  Biddle,  Esq.,  of  Philadelphia,  gives  visiters 
an  opportunity  of  descending  below  the  bank  and  of 
passing  a  considerable  distanc3  behind  the  two  main 
sheets  of  water.     The  descent  from  the  top  of  the  island 


t 


i' 


I 


36 


IJOOK    OK 


Hum  INitcli.  .  .(Jiivi*  nftlu*  WiiulK. 


to  the  margin  of  the  river  is  185  feet.  A  comnion 
flight  of  steps  leads  down  40  feot  to  the  perpondicular 
spiral  stops,  90  in  nunibrr,  which  are  en(  loscd  in  a 
building  in  the  shape  of  a  hexagon  resting  on  a  firm 
foundation  at  the  bottom.  J>om  the  foot  of  the  build- 
ing there  are  three  paths  leading  to  the  most  important 
points  of  observation,  one  of  which  leads  to  the  river 
below,  80  feet,  where  visiters  will  find  one  of  the  finest 
fishing  places  in  this  part  of  the  world.  All  the  varie- 
ties of  fish  existing  in  Lake  Ontario  are  found  liere, 
among  which  are  sturgeon,  pike,  pickerel,  black  and 
white  bass,  herrings,  cat-fish,  eels,  &.c.  Here  was  Sam 
Patch's  jumping  place.  The  path  at  the  left  of  the  stair- 
case leads  to  the  great  Crescent  Fall,  where,  when  the 
wind  blows  up  the  river,  a  safe  and  delightful  passage  is 
opened  behind  the  sheet  of  water. 

The  path  at  the  right  leads  to  a  magnificent  Cave, 
appropriately  named  when  it  was  first  discovered,  twenty 
five  years  since,  iEolus'  Cave,  or  Cave  of  the  Winds. 
This  cave  is  about  120  feet  across,  50  feet  wide  and  100 
feet  high;  it  is  situated  directly  behind  the  Centre  Fall, 
which  at  the  bottom  is  more  than  100  feet  wide,  and 
were  the  rocks  excavated  a  little  and  a  few  steps  made, 
visiters  could  safely  pass  into  and  entirely  through  the 
cave  behind  the  sheet  of  water.  Beyond  this  cave  at 
the  foot  of  Luna  Island,  there  is  an  open  space  where 


'"^ 


THK    FALLS. 


99 


PnMHiipf'  licliirid  t\ui  Fnllx. 


\  coinnioii 
rppndicular 
loHcd  in  a 
on  a  firm 
'  the  biiild- 
t  important 

0  the  river 
r  the  finest 

1  the  varie- 
aiind    here, 

black  and 

re  was  Sam 

)f  the  stair- 

when  the 

passage  is 

ent  Cave, 
ed,  twenty 
le  Winds, 
e  and  100 
ntre  Fall, 
wide,  and 
eps  made, 
rough  the 
s  cave  at 
ace  where 


pcrHons  may  amuse  themselves  at  leisiiro  upon  the  rockH, 
over  wliich  the  floods  are  pouring,  and  then  venture  in 
as  far  as  they  please  behind  the  whole  American  Fall. 

The  writer  of  these  pages   first  conceived  the  idea  of 
effecting  an  entrance  into  this  cave,  July  14,  1H34,  while 
passing  in  front  of  the  American  Fall  in  a  boat,  and  the 
next  day  it  was  effected  for  the  first  time  by  passing 
round  the  outside  of  the  full  and  descending  from  the 
foot  of  Luna    Island.     Accompanying  the  above  idea, 
was  a  project  of   passing  behind  the   whole  American 
Fall,  50  rods,  and  coming  out  near  the  ferry.    This  pas- 
sage, though  not  yet  effected,  is  believed  to  be  possible; 
for  the  opening  between  the  sheet  of  water  as  it  falis,  and 
the  rock  behind  is  from  15  to  50  feet  wide,  and  there  are 
rocks   to  walk   upon  through  the   whole   distance.     If 
there  be  any  insurmountable  obstacle,  it  will  probably  be 
found  in  the  tremendous  wind  and  spray  occasioned  by 
the  falling  flood.     A  passage   into  the  cave  was  at  first 
considered   a  great  exploit,  but  a  passage  behind  the 
whole  sheet  would  be  inconceivably  greater.     The  cave 
itself  is  the  neplus  ultra  of  wonders,  a  visit  to  which  no 
person  ought  to  omit.     Ladies  and  gentlemen  can  very 
often,  when  the  wind  blows  down  the  river,  pass  a  con- 
siderable distance  behind  the  sheet  of  water  within  the 
cave  without  getting  wet  at  all.     The  view  presented  to 

a  person  while  in  the  cave,  in  connexion  with   the  tre- 

4 


.,...i..fe 


'•^'f*' 


38 


BOOK    OF 


Rain-Bow  .  .  .  Extract  fruni  Brainurd. 


'^Pf: 


4» 


[    i 


mendous  and  astounding  roar  of  waters,  which,  owing 
to  the  echoes  or  reverberations,  is  apparently  a  hundred 
times  greater  here  than  any  where  else,  will  enable  hiin 
to  appreciate  the  following  beautiful  and  graphic  lines 
of  Brainard,  — especially  as  there  is  always  in  the  after- 
noon when  the  sun  shines,  a  bright  rain-bow  visible  di- 
rectly within  the  cave  and  behind  the  sheet  of  water. 

"  The  thoughts  arc  strange  that  crowd  into  my  brain, 
While  I  look  upwards  to  thee.    It  would  seem, 
As  if  God  poured  thee  from  his  hollow  hiind. 
And  hung  his  bow  upon  thy  awful  front. 
And  spoke  in  that  loud  voice,  which  seemed  to  him 
Who  dwelt  in  Patmos  for  his  Saviour's  sake, 
'The  sound  of  many  waters ;'  and  hud  bade 
Thy  flood  to  chronicle  the  ages  back. 
And  notch  His  centuries  in  the  eternal  rocks. 

Deep  calleth  unto  deep.    And  what  are  we, 
That  hear  the  question  of  that  voice  sublime  ? 
Oh  !  what  are  all  the  notes  that  ever  rung 
From  war's  vain  trumpet  by  thy  thundering  side  ? 
Yea,  what  is  all  the  riut  man  can  make 
In  his  short  life,  to  thy  unceasing  roar  ! 
And  yet,  bold  babbler,  what  art  thou  to  Him 
Who  drowned  a  world,  and  heaped  the  waters  far 
Above  its  loftiest  mountains  ? — a  light  wave. 
That  breaks  and  whispers  of  its  Maker's  might." 

How  little  and  insignificant  do  the  efforts  of  man  ap- 
pear, when  measured  by  this  exhibition  of  Omnipotence! 
The  earthquake,  the  volcano,  the  wide-spread  conflagra- 
tion, the  shock  of  contending  armies  are  sublime  and 
terrific  spectacles,  though  short  in  their  continuance  and 


■■#-■' 


THE    FALLS. 


a» 


ch,  owing 
a  hundred 
nable  hiin 
iphic  lines 
the  after- 
visible  di- 
water. 


Ferry  to  the  Canada  side. 


limited  in  their  effects;  but  here,  ever  since  the  flood 
probably,  the  deafening  and  incessant  roar  of  the 
mightiest  cataract  on  the  globe  has  called  upon  the  chil- 
dren of  men  to  fall  down  and  adore  their  Maker. 


rain 


THE      FERRY. 


man  ap- 
potence! 
mflagra- 
|ime  and 
mce  and 


There  is  another  stair-case  leading  down  the  bank 
about  six  rods  below  the  Falls,  where  visiters  will  find  a 
safe  ferry  to  the  Canada  side,  .and  have  an  opportunity 
of  viewing  a  scene  of  surpassing  grandeur.  The  deep- 
green  glassy  river  beneath,  the  awful  precipice  of  rocks, 
and  the  mighty  floods  rolling  and  tumbling  from  the 
heights  above,  and  the  singularly  wild,  romantic,  and 
variegated  scenery  around,  fill  the  mind  of  the  beholder 
with  sensations  not  to  be  described.  Here  one  may  per- 
ceive the  propriety  and  beauty  of  the  figure  representing 
Him,  who  is  the  **  Rock  of  ages,"  as  **  the  shadow  of  a 
great  rock  in  a  weary  land,"  to  those  who  fly  to  him  for 
refuge. 

"  While  viewing  thee 
I  think  how  grand  and  beautiful  is  God, 
When  man  has  not  intruded  on  his  works, 
But  left  his  bright  creation  unimpaired. 

Blessed  scenes ! 


I  11 


-     I 


I 

w 


P  i' 


I  ! 


ii 


40 


BOOK    OF 


Citv  of  the  Falls. 


*  *  *  it  is  no  niortui  touch 

That  sharpened  thy  rough  hrow,  or  fringed  thy  skirts 

Witli  coarse  hixurianee;  —  'twas  the  lightning's  force 

Dashed  its  strong  flash  across  thee,  and  did  point 

The  crag;  or,  with  his  stormy  thunderbolt, 

The  Ahnig'ity  Architect  Jiiniself  disjoined 

Yon  rock;  then  flung  it  down  where  now  it  hfngs, 

And  said,  do  tliou  lie  there." 

The  Ferrymen,  S.  L.  Ware,  Esq.  on  the  Anierican, 
and  Mr.  J.  Shultersburgh,  on  the  Canada  side,  are  both 
very  civil  and  accommodating,  well  acquainted  with 
their  business,  and  able  to  give  much  information  to 
visiters.  Whenever  required,  they  take  parties  out  on 
pleasure  or  fishing  excursions,  and  thus  enable  them  to 
take  a  more  extensive  view  of  the  gorgeous  river  scenery. 
The  construction  of  a  carriage  road  is  now  in  progress 
down  these  perpendicular  banks,  so  as  to  have  a  ferry  for 
teams  and  carriages;  and  when  this  is  completed,  it 
must  become  a  great  and  important  thoroughfare  for 
travellers. 


CANADA     VIEWS  —  CITY     OF     THE     FALLS. 

Directly  opposite  the  Falls  on  the  Canada  side,  an  en- 
terprising Company,  having  purchased  the  grounds  for- 
merly owned  by  Mr.  Forsyth,  have  projected  and  laid 
out  what  they  call  **  The  City  of  the  Falls,"  and  are 
now  making  very  considerable   improvements.       They 


•i>' 


S*:.". 


^' 


Ml 


THE    FALLS. 


41 


Clifton  .  .  .  New  Hotrl. 


irts 


merican, 

are  both 

ed   with 

ation  to 

!S  out  on 

them  to 

scenery. 

progress 

ferry  for 

eted,  it 

fare  for 


Jiope  soon  to  have  schools,  churches,  libraries,  ball  and 
promenade  rooms,  baths,  public  gardens,  and,  indeed, 
every  thing  considered  necessary  to  an  elegant  and 
fashionable  city.  The  lots  and  streets  are  laid  out  with 
much  judgment  and  taste,  and  the  city  has  an  imposing 
and  attractive  appearance  on  paper;  but  how  it  will  ap- 
pear when  actually  built  upon  the  solid  earth,  other  gene- 
rations must  tell. 

The  table  land  on  the  river's  bank  below  the  Falls  and 
opposite  the  Ferry,  owned  by  Captain  Creighton,  has 
also  been  surveyed  into  lots  for  a  village,  to  be  called 
<*  Clifton;"  and  here,  directly  at  the  top  of  the  ferry  road, 
Mr.  Crysler  has  recently  built  a  splendid  hotel,  for  the 
accommodation  of  visiters,  which  contains   upwards  of 
sixty  rooms,  and  will  accommodate  from  sixty  to  one  hun- 
dred guests.     This  is  a  delightful  site  for  a  village,  and 
will  in  a  few  years,  probably,  be  the  most  central  place  of 
resort  on  that  side  of  the  river.     The  following  stanza  of 
Byron,  is  beautifully  descriptive  of  this  place  : 


L  s . 

an  en- 

ids  for- 

Ind  laid 

|nd   are 

They 


*'  From  thy  shady  brow, 

Thou  small,  but  favored  spot  of  holy  ground  ! 
Where'er  we  gaze,  around,  above,  below, 

What  rainbow  tints,  what  magic  charms  are  found ! 
Rock,  river,  forest,  mountain,  all  abound. 

And  bluest  skies  that  harmonize  the  whole ; 
Beneath,  the  distant  torrent's  rushing  sound 

Tells  where  the  volumed  cataract  doth  roll 
Between  those  hanging  rocks,  that  shock  yet  please  the  soul.'* 


'1$^; 


I 


ii 


»lf 


i 


i 


:\ 


v  t 

ii 


ly 


i  i 


42 


BOOK    OP 


Appcanincr  of  the  Burrnnndini;  country. 


In  ascending  the  high  bank,  the  visiter  is  presented 
with  some  dehghtful  views  of  the  Fal?s  and  rapids,  and 
of  the  surrounding  country.  Two  spacious  hotels,  the 
Pavihon  and  Ontario  House,  situated  on  the  high  bank, 
are  much  frequented,  and  can  accommodate  nearly  one 
hundred  and  fifty  guests.  The  Pavilion  has  an  imposing 
appearance,  and  from  the  observatory  on  its  roof,  visiters 
have  an  extensive  view  of  the  surrounding  country. 

A  short  distance  from  the  Pavilion,  at  the  Assembly 
Rooms  kept  by  Mr.  W.  Anderton,  visiters  will  find  warm 
and  cold  baths,  a  general  collection  of  periodicals,  and 
news-papers,  and  a  plentiful  supply  of  refreshments. 

Strangers  who  liave  never  visited  the  Falls,  have  an 
idea  that  the  surrounding  country  must  be  mountainous, 
like  that  in  the  vicinity  of  most  other  falls;  but  the  gene- 
ral aspect  of  the  country  here  for  a  great  extent  on  both 
sides  of  the  river,  above  and  below,  is  that  of  an  almost 
perfect  level,  and  nothing  indicates  the  existence  of  the 
river  or  the  Falls  except  the  constantly  ascending  and 
floating  mist,  and  a  kind  of  subterranean  thundering  roar. 
Below  the  Falls,  the  earth  and  rocks  appear  as  though 
they  had  been  suddenly  rent  asunder  and  separated  one- 
fourth  of  a  mile  apart,  in  order,  by  the  perpendicular 
chasm  thus  made,  to  form  a  channel  for  the  river.  The 
corresponding  portions  of  rock  are  as  regular  in  the  suc- 
cession of  their  strata,  as  would  be  the  leaves  and  cover 


d 


''  1" 


v.,Ji< 


THE    FALLS. 


4S 


Wrlliuul  Canal. 


presented 
Eipids,  and 
lotels,  the 
igh  bank, 
learly  one 
imposing 
of,  visiters 
itry. 

Assembly 

find  warm 

licals,  and 

lents. 

,  have  an 

jntainous, 

the  gene- 

t  on  both 

an  almost 

ice  of  the 

tiding  and 

jring  roar. 

as  though 

rated  one- 

)endicular 

ver.    The 

1  the  suc- 

and  cover 


of  a  book  if  they  were  bisected  and  placed  opposite  each 
other.  The  whole  country  in  Canada,  between  the  two 
lakes,  except  a  narrow  strip  bordering  upon  Lake  Ontario, 
is  generally  level,  rich,  and  productive,  and  is  becoming 
quite  populous.  In  visiting  the  Canada  side,  you  can 
cross  the  river  at  Black  Rock,  Lewiston,  or  at  the  Falls; 
and  can  always  have  carriages  on  that  side  to  transport 
you  whither  you  choose.  Stage  Coaches  run  from  the 
Hotels  to  Queenstown  and  Niagara  daily;  also  to  Chip- 
pewa and  Buffalo.  From  Chippewa  two  steamboats  mn 
daily  to  Buffalo,  one  in  the  morning  and  the  other  in  the 
aflernoon.  No  one  ought  to  fail  of  visiting  the  Canada 
side,  as  this  grand  and  unparalleled  scene  of  nature's 
wonders,  the  fame  wiiereof  is  spread  over  the  world, 
ought  to  be  viewed  and  contemplated  from  every  position. 
The  views  from  that  side,  are  by  many  considered  the 
best;  but  let  every  one  decide  for  himself  from  personal 
observation. 


W  E  L  L  A  N  D     CANAL. 


Eight  miles  west  from  the  Falls  is  the  Welland  Canal, 
connecting  the  waters  of  Lake  Erie  with  Lake  Ontario, 
and  affording  a  passage  for  sloops  and  schooners  of  135 
tons  burthen.     This  Canal  commences  at  Port  Maitland, 


-%' 


44 


iiuoK  or 


llroi'k's  IVIoiiuiiH'iit. 


lu.Mir  i\w  numtli  of  Ctimul  River  on  Lakn  Eric,  4H  niileB 
west  of  Hullalo;  it.  niiiH  in  a  strnijfht  line  iktohh  Wain- 
lloot  MuthIi,  oronHPH  the  C'hippewa  river  by  nicunii  of  an 
ii(]U(m1(i<*(,  sind  ontorH  Lake  Ontario  ut  the  mouth  of  twelve 
nnh'  crock.  It  is  42  niihjs  in  len);(lh,  50  feot  in  width, 
and  varies  from  8 J  to  Ml  feet  in  depth.  The  wiiole  de- 
scent from  one  hike  to  the  other,  'SM  feet,  io  accomplished 
by  means  of  117  locks.  At  the  ileep-cut,  on  what  is  called 
the  mountain  ridjfc,  the  excavation  is  45  ieet  in  depth; 
and  1,477,700  cubic  feet  of  earth,  and  1,890,000  cubic 
feet  of  rock  wen^  reuu)ve(l.  'J'he  locks  here  are  22  by  100 
feet,  and  west  of  this  ridjre  they  oi'e  45  by  125  feet.  The 
Canal  was  conmienced  in  the  year  1824,  and  complated 
in  five  years,  and  cost  over  $1 ,000,000.  A  large  part  of 
the  stock  is  owned  by  individuals  in  the  state  of  New- 
York.  The  Company  own  all  the  land  alongr  the  line 
of  the  Canal,  includinjr  the  hydraulic  privileges;  and 
another  tract,  containing  about  10,000  acres,  has  been 
irranted  to  them  by  the  British  Government. 


11  K  O  C  K     S    MONUMENT,    r??,* 


,i    I 


Six  miles  and  a  half  north  from  the  Falls,  upon  Queens- 
ton  heights,  is  General  Brock's  Monument,  constructed 
of  free  etone  120  feet  high,  and  admitting  on  ascent  to 


TUF,    KAM.S. 


4r> 


niirnltiff  HprliiK. 


*,  48  niileH 
•o«H  Wain- 
cann  of  an 
li  of  twelve 
.  in  width, 

whole  cle- 
c'.onipliHhcd 
at  iH  called 
,  in  depth; 
1,000  cubic 
e  22  by  100 
feet.     The 

completed 

ge  part  of 
of  New- 
pf  the  line 

oges;  and 
has  been 


the  top  by  a  flijrht  of  170  winding;  ntepH.  From  tliiH  omi- 
nenco,  the  country  around,  including  the  pioturcHcpie  lake 
Hi'.cnory,  may  bo  seen  for  filYy  niiles.  The  following  in- 
Hcripiion  iH  found  on  tb'm  Monumnnt : 

''  'Pile  fiOgiHlaturo  of  IJppnr  ('ana<la  haw  <lndiratod  this 
Monument  to  the  many  civil  and  militry  HorvicfH  of  the 
lute  Sir  iHaa*;  Brock,  Knight,  Commander  of  the  most 
honorable  Order  of  the  IJath,  Provinciiil  Lioutcnant-Go- 
vernor  and  Major-Gennral,  Commanding  his  Majosty'H 
forcco  therein.  He  fell  in  action,  on  the  llUh  of  Oct., 
I  HI  2,  honored  and  beloved  by  thoHO  whom  he  governed, 
and  deplored  by  Iuh  Kovoreign,  to  whose  Hcrvice  his  life 
had  been  devoted.  His  remainn  are  deposited  in  this 
vault,  as  also  his  Aid-de-Camp,  Lieutenant-Colonel  John 
McDonald,  who  died  of  his  wounds  the  14th  of  October, 
1818,  received  the  day  before,  in  action," 


a  Queens- 
mstructed 
ascent  to 


JM;  n  N  1  N  O    SPRING. 

One  mile  south  from  the  Falls,  near  the  rapids,  is  the 
Burning  Spring.  This  is  in  a  state  of  constant  ebullition, 
and  from  it  issues  a  stream  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas, 
which  quickly  ignites  on  the  touch  of  a  candle,  and  bums 
with  a  brilliant  flame.  The  Spring  is  enclosed  in  a 
barrel,  which  collects  the  gas  and  lets  it  out  through  a 


^V 


■*. 


Wfi- 


w 


46 


BOOK    OF 


Hpiral  StiiircaHC. 


tube  inserted  at  tJie  top.  This  gas  might,  without  doubt, 
be  communicated  by  pipes  to  neighboring  buildings,  and 
substituted  for  candles  and  lamps.  The  keeper  of  the 
Spring,  Mr.  J.  Conklin,  expects  a  small  fee  from  visiters, 
for  his  trouble.  There  are  strong  indications  at  this 
Spring  of  a  bed  of  coal  near,  but  no  effort  1  is  yet  been 
made  to  discover  it. 


STAIR-CASE. 


At  the  Falls,  near  Table  Rock,  is  a  spiral  Stair  Case, 
constructed  for  the  purpose  of  letting  people  descend  and 
pass  behind  the  sheet  of  water.  The  views  behind  this 
sheet,  153  feet  from  the  outer  edge,  are  awfully  sublime 
and  terrific,  and  visiters  generally  feel  themselves  well 
repaid  for  going  there.  The  inipresHlons  there  produced 
will  probably  never  be  effaced. 

Mr.  Starkey,  who  keeps  a  house  of  refreshment  and  a 
cabinet  of  minerals  here,  is  very  accommodating  to 
visiters,  and  when  desired,  furnishes  them  with  a  dress 
and  guide  to  facilitate  their  passage  behind  the  Falls. 
This  place  has  been  extensively  known  and  is  much  fre- 
quented by  visiters. 


.^ 


^' 


THE    FALLS. 


47 


MuHcum  .  .  .  iSuinmr^r  and  Winter  Hcciicry. 


thout  doubt, 
ildings,  and 
;eper  of  the 
rom  visiters, 
Lons  at  this 
■\s  yet  been 


Stair  Case, 
descend  and 
s  behind  this 
*ully  sublime 
mselves  well 
re  produced 

iment  and  a 

nodating    to 

with  a  dress 

d  the  Falls. 

is  much  fre- 


MUSEUM. 

A  few  rods  from  this  stair-case  is  Mr.  Barnett's  Mu- 
seum of  natural  and  artificial  curiosities;  — an  establish- 
ment well  worthy  of  patronage.  The  rooms  are  ar- 
ranged very  tastefully  so  as  to  represent  a  forest  scene, 
and  contain  upwards  of  800  stuffed  animals  of  various 
kinds  and  descriptions.  There  are  bipeds  and  quadru- 
ped; birds,  fishes,  insects,  reptiles,  shells,  minerals  and 
Indian  ciiriosities;  all  calculated  to  delight  the  eye,  im- 
prove the  understanding,  and  mend  the  heart.  Of  the 
birds,  beasts,  fishes,  and  insects,  several  hundred  species 
were  caught  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Falls.  The  noblest 
eagles  of  the  land  delight  to  hover  around  the  Falls;  and 
here  they  are  frequently  killed,  stuffed,  and  offered  for 
sale.  A  large  collection  of  live  rattle-snakes  may  also 
be  seen  here. 


SUMMER  AND  WINTER  SCENERY. 

I 

The  surrounding  scenery  on  both  sides  of  the  river  is  in 
good  keeping  with  the  magnificence  of  the  Falls.  It  is 
just  what  it  should  be, — grand,  striking,  and  unique. 


^' 


.--«;. 


48 


BOOK  or 


Siit'inry  in  Winter. 


By  most  visiters  it  is  seen  only  in  summer.  But  in  the 
winter  it  is  also  inimitably  and  indescribably  beautiful. 
The  trees  and  shrubbery  on  Goat  and  other  islands  and 
on  the  banks  of  the  river  near  the  Falls,  are  covered 
with  transparent  sleet,  presenting  an  appearance  of 
*'  icy  brilliants,"  or  rather  of  millions  of  glittering  chan- 
deliers of  all  sizes  and  descriptions,  and  giving  one  a 
most  a  vivid  idea  of  fairy  land, 

'•  For  every  sl)ruli  Jind  every  blade  of  {jruhs 
And  f.very  pointed  thorn  s"enis  wrought  in  gluys;, 
The  friglited  birds  the  ruttlinfi  br.  iiein  s  shun, 
Which  wave  and  glitter  in  the  distant  sun." 

The  scene  presents  a  splendid  counterpart  to  Gold- 
smith's description  of  the  subterranean  grottos  of  Paros 
and  Antiparos.  The  mist  from  the  Falls  freezes  upon 
the  trees  so  gradually  and  to  such  thickness,  that  it  often 
bears  a  most  exact  resemblance  to  Alabaster;  and  this, 
set  off  by  the  dazzling  colors  of  the  rainbows  that  arch 
the  river  from  twenty  different  points,  seems,  by  natural 
association,  to  raise  the  imagination  to  that  world, 
where  the  streets  are  of  pure  gold,  tl.e  gates  of  pearl, 
and  night  is  unknown. 


"  Look,  the  massy  trunks 
Are  cased  in  the  pure  crystal  ;  branch  and  twig 
Shine  in  the  lucid  covering;  eacn  light  rod, 
Nodding  and  twinkling  in  the  stirring  breeze, 
Is  studded  with  its  trembling  water-drops. 
Still  streaming,  as  they  move,  with  colored  light. 


n 


THE    FALLS. 


A\"intor  Sccnrry.  .  .Wild  DuckH. 


But  in  the 
y  beautiful, 
islands  and 
are  covered 
learance  of 
tering  clian- 
iving  one  a 


11, 

rt  to  Gold- 
;os  of  Paros 
reezes  upon 
that  it  often 
r;  and  this, 
s  that  arch 
,  by  natural 
hat  world, 
3s  of  pearl, 


ght. 


««t 


But  round  the  parent  uteni,  tlio  lung,  low  bouglM 

Bi^nd  in  a  glittering'  ring,  and  urhoru  hide 

Tlie  glassy  floor.    O  !  you  might  deem  the  spot 

The  Hpacious  cavern  of  some  virgin  mine. 

Deep  in  tiie  wornh  of  earth,  wlierc^  the  geJns  grow  ; 

And  diamonds  put  forth  radiant  rods,  and  liud 

With  aiiiPthyHt  and  topaz,  and  the  place 

Lit  up  most  royally  with  th«'  pure  beam 

That  dwells  in  them;  or,  haply  tlu^  vast  hall 

Of  fa'ry  palace,  that  outlasts  the  night, 

And  fades  not  in  the  glory  of  the  sun  ;  . 

Where  crystal  columns  send  forth  slender  shafts, 

And  crossing  arches,  and  fantastic  aisles 

Wind  from  the  sight  in  brightness,  and  an;  lost 

Among  the  crowded  pillars." 

The  winter  scenery  about  the  Falls  is  peculiar,  a  sight 
of  which  is  worth  a  journey  of  one  thousand  miles. 
Myriads  of  wild  ducks  and  geese  spend  the  day  in  and 
above  the  rapids,  and  regularly  take  their  departure  for  ^ 
Lake  Ontario  every  night  before  dark;  though  some  are 
often  found  in  the  morning  with  a  broken  leg  or  wing, 
and  sometimes  dead,  in  he  river  below  the  Falls.  This 
generally  happens  after  very  dark  or  foggy  night;  and 
it  is  supposed  that,  as  they  always  have  their  heads 
up  stream,  while  in  the  water,  they  are  carried  down  s 
insensibly  by  the  rapids,  till  they  find  themselves  going 
over  the  precipice,  and  then,  in  attempting  to  fly,  they 
dive  into  the  sheet  of  water,  and  are  buried  for  a  time 
under  the  Falls  or  upon  the  rocks. 

6 


:i% 


""^^'IPF^ 


w 


mm 


fiO 


uooK  or 


liiiulcrt.  .  .  let'  liriil^c 


I  "4 


Dead  finh,  too,  of  alrnoHt  all  bizch  and  dcscriplioiiH, 
weighing  from  one  to  ncventy  pounds,  are  found  Uoating 
in  the  cddicH  below  the  FalJK,  forming  a  dainty  repant  for 
gulls,  loons,  hawks,  and  eagles.  The  splendid  gyrations 
of  the  guiis,  and  their  fearless  approaches,  enveloped  in 
clouds  of  mist,  up  to  the  boiling  caldron  direcMy  under 
the  Falls,  attract  nmch  attention.  But  the  eagle,  fierce, 
daring,  contemplative,  and  tyrannicnl,  takes  his  stand 
upon  the  point  of  some  projecting  rock,  or  the  dry  limb 
of  a  gigantic  tree,  and  watches  with  excited  interest  the 
movements  of  the  whole  feathered  tribes  below.  Stand- 
ing there  in  lordly  pride  and  dignity,  in  an  instant  his 
eye  kindles  and  his  ardor  rises  as  lie  sees  the  fish-hawk 
emerge  from  the  deep,  screaming  with  exultation  at  his 
success.  He  darts  forth  like  lightning,  and  gives  furious 
chase.  The  hawk,  perceiving  his  danger,  utters  a  scream 
of  despair  and  drops  his  fish;  and  the  eagle  instantly 
seizes  the  fish  in  the  air,  and  bears  his  ill-gotten  booty  to 
his  lofty  eyrie. 

Sometimes  during  a  part  of  the  winter,  the  ice  is 
driven  by  the  wind  from  Lake  Erie,  and  poured  over  the 
Falls  in  such  immense  quantities  as  to  fill  and  block 
up  the  river  between  the  banks,  for  a  mile  or  more,  to 
the  depth  of  from  thirty  to  fifty  feet,  so  that  people 
cross  the  ice  to  Canada,  on  foot,  for  weeks  together. 


>■.'•■■_ 


THK    FAf.LS. 


51 


Uivrr  liclow  tlic  Fulh.  .  .C<»lor  nt'  the  Water.  .  .CliaimH. 


riptiouH, 

lloutiii^ 

?pu8t  for 

yratioriM 

loped  in 

\y  under 

J,  fierce, 

is  stand 

dry  linii) 

•rest  tlie 

Stand- 

itant  Ills 

ih-hawk 

at  his 

furious 

scream 

istantly 

ooty  to 

ice  is 
ver  the 

block 
ore,  to 
people 
rether. 


the  river  itself  is  never  frozen  over,  either  above  or  below 
the  Falls,  but  it  affords  an  outlet  for  vast  quantities  of  ice 
froMj  the  upper  lakes. 


u  I  V  K  K     H  K  r,  o  w     T  H  E     F  A  r,  I.  s . 

The  river  at  the  Falls  is  a  little  over  three-fourths  of 
a  mile  in  width,  but  below  it  is  immediately  compressed 
into  a  narrow  channel  of  less  than  one-fourth  of  a  mile  in 
width;  its  depth,  as  ascertained  by  sounding,  is  about 
250  feet.  Its  color  is  deep  green,  and  sometimes  blue; 
occasioned,  no  doubt,  by  reflection  from  the  sky.  This 
channel  being  between  perpendicular  banks,  from  170  to 
370  feet  high,  is  comparatively  smooth  for  two  miles, 
and  then  runs  with  amazing  velocity  to  Lewiston;  and, 
what  is  somewhat  remarkable,  while  the  river  makes  a 
constant  descent,  the  banks  have  a  gradual  ascent  for  six 
miles;  so  that  from  the  top  of  the  bank  to  the  water,  at 
Brock's  Monument,  near  Queenston,  is  370  feet;  and  the 
heights  there  are  38  feet  higher  than  Lake  Erie,  and  25 
feet  higher  than  the  land  at  Schlosser.  Whether  the  bed 
of  the  river  here  was  once  a  natural  ravine,  or  was  formed 
by  an  eaithquake,  or  worn  away  by  the  continued  and 
violent  action  of  the  water  falling  upon  the  rocks  —  thus 


».W"^',' ' 


tras.'* 


52 


BOOK    OF 


Earliest  Discoveries. 


carrying  the  Falls  back  from  Queenston  to  their  present 
situation,  it  would  be  difficult  to  determine  with  cer- 
tainty. V         • 

From  descriptions  of  the  Falls  written  nearly  two  hun- 
dred years  ago,  we  learn  that,  though  their  shape  has  been 
somewhat  altered  since,  they  then  occupied  the  place 
which  they  hold  now,  and  exhibited  the  same  wonderful 
phenomena.  When  and  by  whom  among  the  whites 
they  were  first  discovered,  the  writer  has  never  yet  been 
able  to  ascertain.  Tradition  ascribes  their  discovery  to 
two  missionaries,  who  were  on  an  exploring  tour  to  this 
part  of  the  country,  in  an  age  anterior  to  any  written 
account  extant.    . 


REMARKS  or  HENNEPIN,  TONTI,  HONTAN,  ETC, 

Father  Hennepin,  who  visited  this  place  in  December, 
1678,  thus  describes  the  Falls: — "Betwixt  the  Lakes 
Ontario  and  Erie,  there  is  a  vast  and  prodigious  cadence 
of  water,  which  falls  down  after  a  surprising  and  asto- 
nishing manner,  insomuch  that  the  universe  does  not 
afford  its  parallel.  'Tis  true,  Italy  and  Suedeland  boast 
of  some  such  things,  but  we  may  well  say  that  they  are 
but  sorry  patterns,  when  compared  with  this  of  which 


fiSfe" 


.„,.  "^itafc,:i?''i.. 


''•:Hft^"'.*«i  \    ■■ 


THE    FATXS. 


53 


Earliest  Discoveries. 


present 
rith  cer- 

;wo  hun- 
has  been 
he  place 
onderful 
J  whites 
yet  been 
overy  ta 
ir  to  this 
written 


N,    KTC, 

cember, 
Lakes 
cadence 
id  asto- 
oes  not 
d  boast 
hey  are 
which 


we  now  speak.  At  the  foot  of  this  horrible  precipice,  we 
meet  with  the  river  Niagara,  which  is  not  above  a  quarter 
of  a  league  broad,  but  is  wonderfully  deep  in  some 
places.  It  is  so  rapid  above  this  descent,  that  it  vio- 
lently hurries  down  the  wild  beasts  while  endeavoring  to 
pass  it  to  feed  on  the  other  side,  they  not  being  able  to 
withstand  the  force  of  its  current,  which  inevitably  casts 
them  headlong  above  six  hundred  feet  high. 

"  This  wonderful  downfall  is  compounded  of  two 
great  cross-streams  of  water,  and  two  falls,  with  an  isle 
sloping  along  the  middle  of  it.  The  waters  which  fall 
from  this  horrible  precipice,  do  foam  and  boil  after  tlie 
most  hideous  manner  imaginable,  making  an  outrageous 
noise,  more  terrible  than  that  of  thunder;  for  when  the 
wind  blows  out  of  the  south,  their  dismal  roaring  may 
be  heard  more  than  fifteen  leagues  off. 

'*  The  river  Niagara  having  thrown  itself  down  this 
incredible  precipice,  continues  its  impetuous  course  for 
two  leagues  together,  to  the  Great  Rock  above  men- 
tioned, with  an  inexpressible  rapidity;  but  having  passed 
that,  its  impetuosity  relents,  gliding  along  more  gently 
for  other  two  leagues,  till  it  arrives  at  the  Lake  Ontario 
or  Frontenac. 

*'  Any  barque  or  greater  vessel  may  pass  from  the  Fort 
to  the  foot  of  this  huge  rock,  above  mentioned.     This 

rock  lies  to  the  westward,  and  is  cut  off  from  the  land 

5* 


54 


BOOK    OF 


Kiirlicst  I)ia  overies. 


by  the  river  Niagara,  about  two  leagues  further  down 
than  the  Great  Fall;  for  which  two  leagues  the  people 
are  obliged  to  transport  their  goods  over  land;  but  the 
way  is  very  good,  and  the  trees  are  but  feWj  chiefly 
firs  and  oaks. 

*'  From  the  great  Fall  unto  this  Rock,  which  is  to  the 
west  of  the  river,  the  two  brinks  of  it  are  so  prodigious 
high,  that  it  would  make  one  tremble  to  look  steadily 
upon  the  water,  rolling  along  with  a  rapidity  not  to  be 
imagined.  Were  it  not  for  this  vast  cataract,  which 
interrupts  navigation,  they  might  sail  with  barques  or 
greater  vessels  more  than  four  hundred  and  fifty  leagues, 
crossing  the  Lake  of  Huron,  and  reaching  even  to  the 
further  end  of  the  Lake  Illinois;  which  two  lakes  we 
may  easily  say  are  little  seas  of  fresh  water. 

**  After  we  had  rowed  above  an  hundred  and  forty 
leagues  upon  the  Lake  Erie,  by  reason  of  the  many  wind- 
ings of  the  bays  and  creeks  which  we  were  forced  to 
coast,  we  passed  by  the  great  Fall  of  Niagara,  and  spent 
half  a  day  in  considering  the  wonders  of  that  prodigious 
cascade. 

**  I  could  not  conceive  how  it  came  to  pass,  that  four 
great  lakes,  the  least  of  which  is  four  hundred  leagues  in 
compass,  should  empty  themselves  one  into  another,  and 
then  all  centre  and  discharge  themselves  at  this  great 
Fall,  and  yet  not  drown  good  part  of  America.     What  is 


^l^i^vuVL^Ab 


^i^^thi' 


i  »l  .•-  ■■■■i ' 


TH£   FALLS. 


Earliest    Discov>  ries. 


er  down 

e  people 

but  the 

,   chiefly 

is  to  the 
rodigious 

steadily 
not  to  be 
it,  which 
irques  or 
7  leagues, 
n  to  the 

lakes  we 

md  forty 

ny  wind- 

brced  to 

nd  spent 

odigious 

hat  four 
agues  in 
her,  and 
lis  great 
What  is 


yet  more  surprising,  the  ground  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Lake  Erie,  down  to  the  great  Fall,  appears  almost  level 
and  flat.  It  is  scarce  discernable  that  there  is  the  least 
rise  or  fall  for  six  leagues  together.  The  more  than 
ordinary  swiftness  of  the  stream,  is  the  only  thing  which 
makes  it  to  be  observed.  And  that  which  makes  it  yet 
the  stranger  is,  that  for  two  leagues  together,  below  the 
Fall,  towards  the  Lake  Ontario  or  Frontenac,  the  lands 
are  as  level  as  they  are  above  it  towards  the  Lake  Erie. 

"Our  surprise  was  still  js^ie.  er  when  we  observed  there 
was  no  mountain  within  tw  •  »d  leagues  of  this  cas- 
cade; and  yet  the  vast  quantity  of  water  which  is  dis- 
charged by  these  four  fresh  seas,  stops  or  centres  here, 
and  so  falls  above  six  hundred  feet  deep  down  into  a 
gulf,  which  one  cannot  look  upon  without  horror.  Two 
other  great  outlets  or  falls  of  water,  which  are  on  the 
two  sides  of  a  small  sloping  island,  whicL  is  in  the 
midst,  fall  gently  and  without  noise,  and  so  glide  away 
quietly  enough;  but  when  this  prodigious  quantity  of 
water  of  which  I  speak,  comes  to  fall,  there  is  such  a  din 
and  such  a  noise,  more  deafening  than  the  loudest 
hunder. 

"  The  rebounding  of  these  waters  is  so  great,  that  a 
sort  of  cloud  arises  from  the  foam  of  it,  which  is  seen 
hanging  over  this  abyss,  even  at  noon-day,  when  the  sun 
is  at  its  height.    In  the  midst  of  summer,  when  the 


m 


r>6 


BOOK  or 


Enrliest,  Discovrries. 


weather  is  hottest,  they  arise  above  the  tallest  firs,  and 
other  great  trees,  which  grow  on  the  sloping  island, 
which  makes  the  two  falls  of  water  that  I  spoke  of. 

*'  I  wished  an  hundred  times,  that  somebody  had  been 
with  us,  who  could  have  described  the  wonders  of  this 
prodigious,  frightful  Fall,  so  as  to  give  the  reader  a  just 
and  natural  idea  of  it;  such  as  might  satisfy  him,  and 
cause  in  him  an  admiration  of  this  prodigy  of  Nature, 
as  great  as  it  deserves.  In  the  meantime  accept  the  fol- 
lowing draught,  such  as  it  is;  in  which,  however,  I  have 
endeavored  to  give  the  curious  reader  as  just  an  image 
of  it  as  I  can. 

"  We  must  call  to  mind  what  I  observed  of  it  in  the 
beginning  of  my  Voyage.  From  the  mouth  of  the  Lake 
Erie  to  the  Great  Fall,  are  reckoned  six  leagues,  as  I 
have  said,  which  is  the  continuation  of  the  great  river  of 
St.  Lawrence,  which  arises  out  of  the  four  lakes  above 
mentioned.  The  river,  you  must  needs  think,  is  very 
rapid  for  these  six  leagues,  because  of  the  vast  discharge 
of  waters  which  fall  into  it  out  of  the  said  lakes.  The 
lands  which  lie  on  both  sides  of  it  to  the  east  and  west, 
are  all  level  from  the  Lake  Erie  to  the  Great  Fall.  Its 
banks  are  not  steep,  on  the  contrary,  the  water  is  almost 
always  level  with  the  land.  It  is  certain,  that  the 
ground  towards  the  Fall  is  lower,  by  the  more  than  ordi- 


o»: 


THE    FALLS. 


57 


Earliest  DiHCOveries. 


firs,  and 
r  island, 

of. 

Iiad  been 
s  of  tliis 
er  a  just 
lim,  and 

Nature, 
t  the  fol- 
r,  I  have 
an  image 

it  in  the 

the  Lake 

ues,  as  I 

t  river  of 

:es  above 

,  is  very 

ischarge 

is.     The 

nd  west, 

"all.     Its 

IS  almost 

that  the 

lan  ordi- 


nary swiftness  of  the  stream;  and  yet  it  is  not  perceiv- 
able to  the  eye  for  the  six  leagues  above.  ' 

* '  After  it  has  run  thus  violently  for  six  leagues,  it 
meets  with  a  small  sloping  island,  about  half  a  quarter  of 
a  league  long  and  near  three  hundred  feet  broad,  as  well 
as  one  can  guess  by  the  eye;  for  it  is  impossible  to  come 
at  it  in  a  canoe  of  bark,  the  waters  run  with  that  force. 
The  isle  is  full  of  cedar  and  fir;  but  the  land  of  it  lies  no 
higher  than  that  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  It  seems  to 
be  all  level,  even  as  far  as  the  two  great  cascades  that 
make  the  main  Fall.  ,  „*., 

**  The  two  sides  of  the  channels,  which  are  made  by 
the  isle,  and  run  on  both  sides  of  it,  overflow  almost  the 
very  surface  of  the  earth  of  the  said  isle,  as  well  as  the 
land  that  lies  on  the  banks  of  the  river  to  the  east  and 
west,  as  it  runs  south  and  north.  But  we  must  observe, 
that  at  the  end  of  the  isle,  on  the  side  of  t(fe  two  Great 
Falls,  there  is  a  sloping  rock  which  reaches  as  far  as  the 
great  gulf,  into  which  the  said  waters  fall,  and  yet  the 
rock  is  not  at  all  wetted  by  the  two  cascades,  which  fall 
on  both  sides,  because  the  two  torrents  which  are  made 
by  the  isle,  throw  themselves  with  a  prodigious  force, 
one  towards  the  east  and  the  other  towards  the  west, 
from  off  the  end  of  the  isle,  where  the  Great  Fall  of  all  i^. 


* 


m 


BOOR    OF 


Earliest  Discoveries, 


1 


'  *  After  these  two  torrents  have  thus  run  by  the  two 
sides  of  the  isle,  they  cast  their  waters  all  of  a  sudden, 
down  into  the  gulf  by  two  great  Falls;  which  waters  are 
pushed  so  violently  on  by  their  own  weight,  and  so  sus- 
tained by  the  swiftness  of  the  motion,  that  they  do  not 
wet  the  rock  in  the  least.  And  here  it  is  that  they  tumble 
down  into  an  abyss  above  six  hundred  feet  in  depth. 

"  The  waters  that  flow  on  the  side  of  the  east,  do  not 
throw  themselves  with  that  violence  as  those  that  fall  on 
the  west;  the  reason  is,  because  the  rock  at  the  end  of 
the  island,  rises  something  more  on  this  side  than  it  does 
on  the  west;  and  so  the  waters  being  supported  by  it 
somewhat  longer  than  they  are  on  the  other  side,  are 
carried  the  smoother  off:  but  on  the  west,  the  rock 
sloping  more,  the  waters  for  want  of  a  support,  become 
the  sooner  broken,  and  fall  with  the  greater  precipitation. 
Another  reason  is,  the  lands  that  lie  on  the  west  are 
lower  than  those  that  lie  on  the  east.  We  also  observed 
that  the  waters  of  the  Fall,  that  is  to  the  west,  made  a 
sort  of  a  square  figure  as  they  foil,  which  made  a  third 
cascade,  less  than  the  other  two,  which  fell  betwixt  the 
south  and  north. 

*<  And  because  there  is  a  rising  ground  which  lies  be- 
fore those  two  cascades  to  the  north,  the  gulf  is  much 
larger  there  than  to  the  east.  Moreover,  we  must 
observe,    that  from    the  rising    ground   that  lies   over 


i"*"! 


THE    FALLS. 


Kiirliuat  Diflcoveries. 


the  two 

sudden, 

aters  are 

d  so  8US- 

y  do  not 
jy  tumble 
jpth. 

it,  do  not 
at  fall  on 
le  end  of 
in  it  does 
ted  by  it 
side,  are 
the  rock 
,  become 
(ipitation. 
west  are 
observed 
,  made  a 
e  a  third 
wixt  the 

|h  lies  be- 

is  much 

re  must 

lies   over 


against  the  two  last  Falls,  which  are  on  the  west  of  the 
main  Fall,  one  may  go  down  as  far  as  the  bottom  of  this 
terrible  gulf.  The  author  of  this  discovery  was  down 
there,  the  more  narrowly  to  observe  the  fall  of  these  pro- 
digious cascades.  From  thence  we  could  discover  a  spot 
of  ground,  which  lay  under  the  fall  of  water  which  is  to 
the  east,  big  enough  for  four  coaches  to  drive  abreast, 
without  being  wet;  but  because  the  ground  which  is  to 
the  ea^t  of  the  sloping  rock,  where  the  first  fall  empties 
itself  into  the  gulf,  is  very  steep  and  perpendicular,  it  is 
impossible  for  a  man  to  get  down  on  that  side,  into  the 
place  where  the  four  coaches  may  go  abreast,  or  to  make 
his  way  through  such  a  quantity  of  water  as  falls  towards 
the  gulf;  so  that  it  is  very  probable,  that  to  this  dry 
place  it  is  that  the  rattle-snakes  retire,  by  certain  pas- 
sages which  they  find  under  ground. 

* '  From  the  end  of  this  island  it  is  that  these  two  great 
Falls  of  waters,  as  also  the  tliird  but  now  mentioned, 
throw  themselves,  after  a  most  surprising  manner,  down 
into  a  dreadful  gulf,  six  hundred  feet  and  more  in  depth. 
I  have  already  said,  that  the  waters  which  discharge 
themselves  at  the  cascade  to  the  east,  fall  with  lesser 
force;  whereas  those  to  the  west  tumble  all  at  once, 
making  two  cascades,  one  moderate,  the  other  very  vio- 
lent and  strong,  which  at  last  make  a  kind  of  crotchet,  or 
square  figure,  falling  from  south  to  north,  and  west  to 


#■: 


■^ 


60 


BOOK    OV 


Kurliest  Discovrries. 


# 


4 


east.  After  this  they  rejoin  the  waters  of  the  other  cas- 
cade tliat  falls  to  the  east,  and  so  tumble  down  alto- 
gether, though  unequally,  into  the  gulf,  with  all  the 
violence  that  can  be  imagined  from  a  Fall  of  six  hundred 
feet,  which  makes  the  most  frightful  cascade  in  the 
world. 

**  After  these  waters  have  thus  discharged  themselves 
into  this  dreadful  gulf,  tiiey  begin  to  resume  their  course, 
and  continue  the  great  river  of  St.  Lawrence  for  two 
leagues,  as  far  as  the  three  mountains  which  are  on  the 
east  side  of  the  river,  and  the  great  rook  which  is  on  the 
west,  and  lifts  itself  three  fathoms  above  the  water  or 
thereabouts.  The  gulf  into  which  these  waters  are  dis- 
charged, continues  itself  thus  two  leagues  together,  be- 
tween a  chain  of  rocks,  flowing  with  a  prodigious  torrent, 
which  is  bridled  and  kept  in  by  the  rocks  that  lie  on  each 
side  of  the  river. 

"  Into  this  gulf  it  is,  that  these  several  cascades  empty 
themselves,  with  a  violence  equal  to  the  height  from 
whence  they  fall,  and  the  quantity  of  waters  which  they 
discharge;  hence  arise  those  deafening  sounds,  that 
dreadful  roaring  and  bellowing  of  the  waters,  which 
drown  the  loudest  thunder,  as  also  the  perpetual  mists 
hang  over  the  gulf,  and  rise  above  the  tallest  pines  that 
are  in  the  little  isle  so  oflen  mentioned.  After  a  channel 
is  again  made  at  the  bottom  of  this  dreadful  Fall,  by  the 


THE    PALLS. 


48 


Winter  Scenery.  .  .Wild  DurkH. 


other  cas- 
own  alto- 
h  all  the 
X  hundred 
ie  in  the 

jiemselves 
eir  course, 
e  for  two 
are  on  the 
h  is  on  the 
J  water  or 
rs  are  dis- 
rether,  be- 
us  torrent, 
ie  on  each 

ides  empty 

eight  from 

ivhich  they 

inds,    that 

lers,  which 

tual  mists 

pines  that 

r  a  channel 

^all,  by  the 


But  round  tiic  parent  stein,  the  long,  low  bougtui 
Bend  in  n  glittering  ring,  and  url)ors  hide 
The  gliissy  floor.    O  !  you  n»ight  deem  the  spot  '  '>'    ' 

The  Hpacious  cavern  of  some  virgin  mine,  j. 

Deep  in  tlie  womb  of  earth,  where  the  gems  grow  •, 
And  diamonds  put  forth  radiant  rods,  and  hud 
With  amethyst  and  topaz,  and  tlie  place 
Lit  up  most  royally  witii  tiie  pure  l)eum 
TImt  dwells  in  them ;  or,  hai)ly  the.  vast  hall 
■  Of  fairy  palace,  that  outlasts  the  night, 
And  fades  not  in  the  glory  of  the  sun  ;  z 

Where  crystal  columns  send  forth  slender  shafts,  * 
And  crossing  arches,  and  fantastic  aisles  > 

<  Wind  from  the  siglit  in  brightucss,  and  are  lo#t 

Among  the  crowded  pillars.".^  ^        ,^k. 

The  winter  scenery  about  the  Falls  is  peculiar,  a  sight 
of  which  is  worth  a  journey  of  one  thousand  miles. 
Myriads  of  wild  ducks  and  geese  spend  the  day  in  and 
above  the  rapids,  and  regularly  take  their  departure  for 
Lake  Ontario  every  night  before  dark;  though  some  are 
often  found  in  the  morning  with  a  broken  leg  or  wing, 
and  sometimes  dead,  in  the  river  below  the  Falls.  This 
generally  happens  after  a  very  dark  or  foggy  night;  and 
it  is  supposed  that,  as  they  always  have  their  heads 
up  stream,  while  in  the  water,  they  are  carried  down 
insensibly  by  the  rapids,  till  they  find  themselves  going 
over  the  precipice,  and  then,  in  attempting  to  fly,  they 
dive  into  the  sheet  of  water,  and  are  buried  for  a  time 
under  the  Falls  or  upon  the  rocks. 

5 


50 


BOOK  or 


Euglrt).  .  .  Ii;e  (bridge. 


i.<t 


Dead  fish,  too,  of  almost  all  sizes  and  descriptions, 
weighing  from  one  to  seventy  pounds,  are  found  floating: 
in  the  eddies  below  the  Falls,  forming  a  dainty  repast  for 
gulls,  loons,  hawks,  and  eagles.  The  splendid  gyrations 
of  the  gulls,  and  their  fearless  approaches,  enveloped  in 
clouds  of  mist,  up  to  the  boiling  caldron  directly  under 
the  Falls,  attract  much  attention.  But  the  eagle,  flerce,. 
daring,  contemplative,  and  tyrannical,  takes  his  stand 
upon  the  point  of  some  projecting  rock,  or  the  dry  limb 
of  a  gigantic  tree,  and  watches  with  excited  interest  the 
movements  of  the  whole  feathered  tribes  below.  Stand- 
ing there  in  lordly  pride  and  dignity,  in  an  instant  his 
eye  kindles  and  his  ardor  rises  as  h«  sees  the  fish-hawk 
emerge  from  the  deep,  screaming  with  exultation  at  his 
success.  He  darts  forth  like  lightning,  and  gives  furious 
chase.  The  hawk,  perceiving  his  danger,  utters  a  scream 
of  despair  and  drops  his  fish;  and  the  eagle  instantly 
seizes  the  fish  in  the  air,  and  bears  his  ill-gotten  booty  to 
his  lofty  eyrie. 

Sometimes  during  a  part  of  the  winter,  the  ice  is 
driven  by  the  wind  from  Lake  Erie,  and  poured  over  the 
Falls  in  such  immense  quantities  as  to  fill  and  block 
up  the  river  between  the  banks,  for  a  mile  or  more,  to 
the  depth  of  from  thirty  to  fifty  feet,  so  that  people 
cross  the  ice  to  Canada,  on  foot,  for  weeks  together. 


^f.' 


THE    FALLS. 


ni 


riptions, 
I  floating 
epast  for 
ryrations 
sloped  in 
}y  under 
le,  fierce^ 
lis  stand 
dry  limb 
erest  the 
Stand- 
stant  liis 
ish-hawk 
)n  at  his 
s  furious 
a  scream 
instantly 
booty  to 

le  ice  is 
over  the 
id  block 
more,  to 
t  people 
ogether. 


Hivt'r  hflow  the  Palla. .  .Color  of  the  Water.  .  .Channel. 

the  river  itself  is  never  frozen  over,  either  above  or  below 
tlie  Falls,  but  it  affords  an  outlet  for  vast  quantities  of  ice 
from  the  upper  lakes.  , , 


4i 


tl 


RIVER   BELOW   THE   FALLS. 


% 


The  river  at  the  Falls  is  a  httle  over  three-fourths  of 
a  mile  in  width,  but  below  it  is  immediately  compressed 
into  a  narrow  channel  of  less  than  one-foitirth  of  a  mile  in 
width;  its  depth,  as  ascertained  by  sounding,  is  about 
250  feet.     Its  color  is  deep  green,  and  sometimes  blue; 
occasioned,  no  doubt,  by  reflection  ftom  the  sky.     This 
channel  being  between  perpendicular  banks,  from  170  to 
370  feet  high,  is  comparatively  smooth  for  two  miles, 
and  then  runs  with  amazing  velocity  to  Lewiston;  and, 
what  is  somewhat  remarkable,  while  the  river  makes  a 
constant  descent,  the  banks  have  a  gradual  ascent  for  six 
miles;  so  that  from  the  top  of  the  bank  to  the  water,  at 
Brock's  Monument,  near  Queenston,  is  370  feet;  and  the 
heights  there  are  38  feet  higher  than  Lake  Erie,  and  85 
feet  higher  than  the  land  at  Schlosser.    Whether  the  bed 
of  the  river  here  was  once  a  natural  ravine,  or  was  formed 
by  an  eaithquake,  or  worn  away  by  the  continued  and 
violent  action  of  the  water  falling  upon  the  rocks  —  thusf 


62 


BOOK  or 


liarliest  UiscoverieB. 


carrying  the  Falls  back  from  Qucenston  to  their  present 
situation,  it  would  be  difficult  to  determine  with  cer- 
tainty. .  . 

From  descriptions  of  the  Falls  written  nearly  two  hun- 
dred years  ago,  we  learn  that,  though  their  shape  has  been 
somewhat  altered  since,  they  then  occupied  the  place 
which  they  hold  now,  and  exhibited  the  same  wonderful 
phenomena.  When  and  by  whom  among  the  whites 
they  were  first  discovered,  the  writer  has  never  yet  been 
able  to  ascertain.  Tradition  ascribes  their  discovery  to 
two  missionaries,  who  were  on  an  exploring  tour  to  this 
part  of  the  country,  in  an  age  anterior  to  any  written 
account  extant. 


REMARKS    OF    HENNEPIN,    TONTl,    HON  TAN,    ETC, 

Father  Hennepin,  who  visited  this  place  in  December, 
1678,  thus  describes  the  Falls: — **  Betwixt  the  Lakes 
Ontario  and  Erie,  there  is  a  vast  and  prodigious  cadence 
of  water,  which  falls  down  after  a  surprising  and  asto- 
nishing manner,  insomuch  that  the  universe  does  not 
afford  its  parallel.  'Tis  true,  Italy  and  Suedeland  boast 
of  some  such  things,  but  we  may  well  say  that  they  are 
but  sorry  patterns,  when  compared  with  this  of  which 


THE    FAt.I.S. 


-68 


Eurlif^Ht  Discnverieri. 


r  present 
vith  cer- 

two  hun- 
\  has  been 
the  place 
vonderful 
le  whites 
r  yet  been 
icovery  to 
mr  to  thiB 
y  written 


AN,    ETT, 

December, 

he  Lakes 

[B  cadence 

and  asto- 

does  not 

and  boast 

t  they  are 

of  which 


we  now  speak.  At  the  foot  of  this  horrible  precipice,  we 
meet  with  the  river  Niagara,  which  is  not  above  a  quarter 
of  a  league  broad,  but  is  wontlerfully  deep  in  some 
places.  It  is  so  rapid  above  thi^  descent,  that  it  vio- 
lently hurries  down  the  wild  beastn  while  endeavoring  to 
pass  it  to  feed  on  the  other  side,  they  not  being  able  to 
withstand  the  force  of  its  current,  which  inevitably  casts 
them  headlong  above  six  hundred  feet  high. 

*'  This  wonderful  downfall  is  compounded  of  two 
great  cross-streams  of  water,  and  two  falls,  with  an  isle 
sloping  along  the  middle  of  it.  The  waters  which  fall 
from  this  horrible  precipice,  do  foam  and  boil  after  the 
most  hideous  manner  imaginable,  making  an  outrageous 
noise,  more  terrible  than  that  of  thunder;  for  when  the 
wind  blows  out  of  the  south,  their  dismal  roaring  may 
be  heard  more  than  fifteen  leagues  off. 

"  The  river  Niagara  having  thrown  itself  down  this 
incredible  precipice,  continues  its  impetuous  course  for 
two  leagues  together,  to  the  Great  Rock  above  men- 
tioned, with  an  inexpressible  rapidity;  but  having  passed 
that,  its  impetuosity  relents,  gliding  along  more  gently 
for  other  two  leagues,  till  it  arrives  at  the  Lake  Ontario 
or  Frontenac.  *'^" 

*'  Any  barque  or  greater  vessel  may  pass  from  the  Fort 
to  the  foot  of  this  huge  rock,  above  mentioned.     This 

rock  lies  to  the  westward,  and  is  cut  off  from  the  lanijl 

5* 


^ 


W/ 


]tt    :    ■^^' 


54 


BOOK    OF 


Earliest  Discoveries. 


•f 


t 


by  the  river  Niagara,  about  two  leagues  further  down 
than  the  Great  Fall;  for  which  two  leagues  the  people 
are  obliged  to  transport  their  goods  over  land:  but  the 
way  is  very  good,  and  the  trees  are  but  few,  chiefly 
firs  and  oaks. 

"  From  the  great  Fall  unto  this  Rock,  which  is  to  the 
west  of  the  river,  the  two  brinks  of  it  are  so  prodigious 
high,  that  it  would  make  one  tremble  to  look  steadily 
upon  the  water,  rolling  along  with  a  rapidity  not  to  be 
imagined.  Were  it  not  for  this  vast  cataract,  which 
interrupts  navigation,  they  might  sail  with  barques  or 
greater  vessels  more  than  four  hundred  and  fifty  leagues, 
crossing  the  Lake  of  Huron,  and  reaching  even  to  the 
further  end  of  the  Lake  Illinois;  which  two  lakes  we 
may  easily  say  are  little  seas  of  fresh  water. 

*' After  we  had  rowed  above  an  hundred  and  forty 
leagues  upon  the  Lake  Erie,  by  reason  of  the  many  wind- 
ings of  the  baj^s  and  creeks  which  we  were  forced  to 
coast,  we  passed  by  the  great  Fall  of  Niagara,  and  spent 
half  a  day  in  considering  the  wonders  of  that  prodigious 
cascade. 

*'  I  could  not  conceive  how  it  came  to  pass,  that  four 
great  lakes,  the  least  of  which  is  four  hundred  leagues  in 
compass,  should  empty  themselves  one  into  another,  and 
then  all  centre  and  discharge  themselves  at  this  great 
Fall,  and  yet  not  drown  good  part  of  America.    What  is 


,^, 


TM£  FALLS. 


55 


Earliest   Discoveries. 


•  down 
people 
mt  the 
chiefly 

3  to  the 
digious 
steadily 
)t  to  be 

which 
ques  or 
eagues, 

to  the 
ikes  we 

d  forty 
y  wind- 
rced  to 
d  spent 
idigious 

at  four 
gues  in 
ler,  and 
s  great 
hat  is 


yet  more  surprising,  the  ground  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Lake  Erie,  down  to  the  great  Fall,  appears  almost  level 
and  flat.  It  is  scarce  discernable  that  there  is  the  least 
rise  or  fall  for  six  leagues  together.  The  more  than 
ordinary  swiftness  of  the  stream,  is  the  only  thing  which 
makes  it  to  be  observed.  And  that  which  makes  it  yet 
the  stranger  is,  that  for  two  leagues  together,  below  the 
Fall,  towards  the  Lake  Ontario  or  Frontenac,  the  lands 
are  as  level  as  they  are  above  it  towards  the  Lake  Erie. 

*'  Our  surprise  was  still  greater  when  we  observed  there 
was  no  mountain  within  two  good  leagues  of  this  cas- 
cade; and  yt  the  vast  quantity  of  water  which  is  dis- 
charged by  these  four  fresh  seas,  stops  or  centres  here, 
and  so  falls  above  six  hundred  feet  deep  down  into  a 
gulf,  which  one  cannot  look  upon  without  horror.  Two 
other  great  outlets  or  falls  of  water,  which  are  on  the 
two  sides  of  a  small  sloping  island,  which  is  in  the 
midst,  fall  gently  and  without  noise,  and  so  glide  away 
quietly  enough;  but  when  this  prodigious  quantity  of 
water  of  which  I  speak,  comes  to  fall,  there  is  such  a  din 
and  such  a  noise,  more  deafening  than  the  loudest 
thunder.  " 

* '  The  rebounding  of  these  waters  is  so  great,  that  a 
sort  of  cloud  arises  from  the  foam  of  it,  which  is  seen 
hanging  over  this  abyss,  even  at  noon-day,  when  the  sun 

[n  the  midst  of  summer,  when   the 


height. 


'/ 


^■T 


-f="' 


m 


fiook  ot 


EHTlicst  Discovcrij'g. 


r^- 


weather  is  hottest,  they  arise  above  the  tallest  firs,  and 
other  great  trees,  which  grow  on  the  sloping  island, 
which  makes  the  two  falls  of  w^ater  that  1  spoke  of. 

"  I  wished  an  hundred  times,  that  somebody  had  been 
with  us,  who  could  have  described  the  wonders  of  tiiis 
prodigious,  frightful  Fall,  so  as  to  give  the  reader  a  just 
and  natural  idea  of  it;  such  as  might  satisfy  him,  and 
cause  in  him  an  admiration  of  this  prodigy  of  Nature, 
as  great  as  it  deserves.  In  the  meantime  accept  the  fol- 
lowing draught,  such  as  it  is;  in  which,  however,  I  have 
endeavored  to  give  the  curious  reader  as  just  an  image 
of  it  as  I  can. 

*<  We  must  call  to  mind  what  I  observed  of  it  in  the 
beginning  of  my  Voyage.  From  the  mouth  of  the  Lake 
Erie  to  the  Great  Fall,  are  reckoned  six  leagues,  as  I 
have  said,  which  is  the  continuation  of  the  great  river  of 
St.  Lawrence,  wliich  arises  out  of  the  four  lakes  above 
mentioned.  The  river,  you  must  needs  think,  is  very 
rapid  for  these  six  leagues,  because  of  the  vast  discharge 
of  waters  which  fall  into  it  oul  of  the  said  lakes.  The 
lands  which  lie  on  both  sides  of  it  to  the  ea;  t  and  west, 
are  all  level  from  the  Lake  Erie  to  the  Great  Fall.  Its 
banks  are  not  steep,  on  the  contrary,  the  water  is  almost 
always  level  with  the  land.  It  is  certain,  that  the 
ground  towards  the  Fall  is  lower,  by  the  more  than  ordi- 


Kff  'V-^'' 


■44'^''-%^..:;  -'^-y-' 


'■'"IPfq^r" 


THE    FALLS, 


w 


Earlk'st  Discoveries. 


irs,  and 
island, 
of. 

ad  been 
(  of  this 
»r  a  just 
im,  and 
Nature, 
the  fol- 
•,  I  have 
.n  image 

it  in  the 
he  Lake 
les,  as  I 

river  of 
es  above 

is  very 
ischarge 
s.  The 
id  west, 
all.  Its 
s  almost 
hat  the 

an  ordi- 


nary swiftness  of  the  stream;  and  yet  it  is  not  perceiv- 
able to  the  eye  for  the  six  leagues  above. 

"After  it  has  run  thus  violently  for  six  leagues,  it 
meets  with  a  small  sloping  island,  about  half  a  quarter  of 
a  league  long  and  near  three  hundred  feet  broad,  as  well 
as  one  can  guess  by  the  eye;  for  it  is  impossible  to  come 
at  it  in  a  canoe  of  bark,  the  waters  run  with  that  force, 
The  isle  is  full  of  cedar  and  fir;  but  the  land  of  it  lies  no 
higher  than  that  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  It  seema  to 
be  all  level,  even  as  far  ^s  the  two  great  cascades  that 
make  the  main  Fall. 

"  The  two  sides  of  the  channels,  which  ?iye  made  by 
the  isle,  and  run  on  both  sides  of  it,  overflow  almost  the 
very  surface  of  the  earth  of  the  said  isle,  as  v-^ell  as  the 
land  that  lies  on  the  banks  of  the  river  to  the  east  and 
west,  as  it  runs  south  and  north.  But  we  must  observe, 
that  at  the  end  of  the  isle,  on  the  ^ide  of  the  two  Great 
Falls,  there  is  a  sloping  rock  which  reaches  as  far  as  the 
great  gulf,  into  which  the  said  waters  fall,  and  yet  the 
rock  is  not  at  all  wetted  by  the  two  cascades,  which  fall 
on  both  sides,  because  the  two  torrents  which  are  made 
by  the  isle,  throw  themselves  with  a  prodigious  force, 
one  towards  the  east  and  the  other  towards  the  west, 
ftqin  off  the  end  of  the  isle,  where  the  Great  Fall  of  all  is, 


% 


*  t- 


*. 


jtij.-^^ii'. 


..^■.-  >-i^. 


..  -i 


^|f*;v  ■-■  ■■    :" ^fwr|»>'^' 


58 


BOOK    OP 


Earliest  Discoveries, 


r<' 


»:. 


M 


"After  these  two  torrents  have  thus  run  by  the  two 
sides  of  the  isle,  they  cast  their  waters  all  of  a  sudden, 
down  into  the  gulf  by  two  great  Falls;  which  waters  are 
pushed  so  violently  on  by  their  own  weight,  and  so  sus- 
tained by  the  swiftness  of  the  motion,  that  they  do  not 
wet  the  rock  in  the  least.  And  here  it  is  that  they  tumble 
down  into  an  abyss  above  six  hundred  feet  in  depth. 

"  The  waters  that  flow  on  the  side  of  the  east,  do  not 
throw  themselves  with  that  violence  as  those  that  fall  on 
the  west;  the  reason  is,  because  the  rock  at  the  end  of 
the  island,  rises  something  more  on  this  side  than  it  does 
on  the  west;  and  so  the  waters  being  supported  by  it 
somewhat  longer  than  they  are  on  the  other  side,  are 
carried  the  smoother  off:  but  on  the  west,  the  rock 
sloping  more,  the  waters  for  want  of  a  support,  become 
the  sooner  broken,  and  fall  with  the  greater  precipitation. 
Another  reason  is,  the  lands  that  lie  on  the  west  are 
lower  than  those  that  lie  on  the  east.  We  also  observed 
that  the  waters  of  the  Fall,  that  is  to  the  west,  made  a 
sort  of  a  square  figure  as  they  fell,  which  made  a  third 
cascade,  less  than  tlie  other  two,  which  fell  betwixt  the 
south  and  north.  '*»  # 

'*  And  because  there  is  a  rising  ground  which  lies  be- 
fore those  two  cascades  to  the  north,  the  gulf  is  much 

'f 
larger  there  than  to  the   east.       Moreover,    we   must ' 

observe,    that  from    the   rising    ground   that  lies   ov^r 


4f» 


d^yifi-. 


-vMJf 


..li'-'Iv^-'S""-'   ." 


THE    FALLS. 


59 


Earliest  Discoveries. 


rock 


against  the  two  last  Falls,  which  are  on  the  west  of  the 
main  Fall,  one  may  go  down  as  far  as  the  bottom  of  this 
terrible  gulf.  The  author  of  this  discovery  was  down 
there,  the  more  narrowly  to  observe  the  fall  of  these  pro- 
digious cascades.  From  thence  we  could  discover  a  spot 
of  ground,  which  lay  under  the  fall  of  water  which  is  to 
the  east,  big  enough  for  four  coaches  to  drive  abreast, 
without  being  wet;  but  because  the  ground  which  is  to 
the  east  of  the  sloping  rock,  where  the  first  fall  empties 
itself  into  the  gulf,  is  \ery  steep  and  perpendicular,  it  is 
impossible  for  a  man  to  get  down  on  that  side,  into  the 
place  where  the  four  coaches  may  go  abreast,  or  to  make 
his  way  through  such  a  quantity  of  water  as  falls  towards 
the  gulf;  so  that  it  is  very  probable,  that  to  this  dry 
place  it  is  that  the  rattle-snakes  retire,  by  certain  pas- 
sages which  they  find  under  ground. 

"  From  the  end  of  this  island  it  is  that  these  two  great 
Falls  of  waters,  as  also  the  third  but  now  mentioued, 
throw  themselves,  after  a  most  surprising  manner,  down 
into  a  dreadful  gulf,  six  hundred  feet  and  more  in  depth. 
I  have  already  said,  that  the  waters  which  discharge 
themselves  at  the  cascade  to  the  east,  fall  with  lesser 
force;  whereas  those  to  the  west  tumble  all  at  once, 
making  two  cascades,  one  moderate,  the  other  very  vio- 
lent and  strong,  which  at  last  make  a  kind  of  crotchet,  or 
square  figure,  falling  from  south  to  north,  and  west  to 


•  .< 


_.ii3b^!tU\..-i^i 


-m 


L^u 


■  ■  ■■'■*!  ■ 


60 


BOOK    OF 


KurlicHt  Discoveries. 


east.  After  this  they  rejoin  the  waters  of  the  otlier  cas- 
cade tliat  falls  to  the  cast,  and  so  tumble  down  alto- 
gether, though  unequally,  into  the  gulf,  with  all  the 
violence  that  can  be  imagined  from  a  Fall  of  six  hundred 
feet,  which  makes  the  most  frightful  cascade  in  the 
world. 

' '  After  these  waters  have  thus  discharged  themselves 
into  this  dreadful  gulf,  they  begin  to  resume  their  course, 
and  continue  the  gre?.t  river  of  Sti  Lawrence  for  two 
leagues,  as  far  as  the  three  mountains  which  are  on  the 
east  side  of  the  river,  and  the  great  rock  which  is  on  the 
west,  and  lifts  itself  three  fathoms  above  the  water  or 
thereabouts.  The  gulf  into  which  these  waters  are  dis- 
charged, continues  itself  thus  two  leagues  together,  be- 
tween a  chain  of  rocks,  flowing  with  a  prodigious  torrent, 
which  is  bridled  and  kept  in  by  the  rocks  that  lie  on  each 
side  of  the  river. 

*'  Into  this  gulf  it  is,  that  these  several  cascades  empty 
themselves,  with  a  violence  equal  to  the  height  from 
whence  they  fall,  and  the  quantity  of  waters  which  they 
discharge;  hence  arise  those  deafening  sounds,  that 
dreadful  roaring  and  bellowing  of  the  waters,  which 
drown  the  loudest  thunder,  as  also  the  perpetual  mists 
hang  over  the  gulf,  and  rise  above  the  tallest  pines  that 
are  in  the  little  isle  so  often  mentioned.  After  a  channel 
is  again  made  at  the  bottom  of  this  dreadful  Fall,  by  the 


-■^ 


■■  JIP*'- 


ler  ca8- 
n  alto- 
all  the 
lundred 
in   the 


THE     FALLS. 


73 


Tuscurorii  Indiaiiw. 


T  U  S  C  A  R  O  R  A    INDIANS. 


mselves 
course, 
for  two 
;  on  the 
is  on  the 
«rater  or 
are  dis- 
ther,  be- 
torrent, 
on  eacli 

es  empty 
rht  from 
lich  they 
ds,  that 
which 
lal  mists 
ines  that 
channel 
11,  by  the 


s 


Eight  miles  below  tlie  Falls  and  three  miles  back  from 
the  river,  is  the  Reservation  of  the  Tuscarora  Indians, 
containing  two  miles  in  width  by  four  in  length,  (about 
5000  acres)  of  very  excellent  land.     They   consist  of 
about  three  hundred  souls,  have  a  Presbyterian  Church, 
of  50  members,    a  resident   clergyman,  and   a  school 
teacher,  and  a  Temperance  Society  of  more  than  one 
hundred  members.      They  are  under  the  care  of  the 
American  Board  for  Foreign  Missions.     Their  village  is 
delightfully  situated,  on  a  high  bank  commanding  an  ex- 
tensive prospect  of  the  surrounding  country,   and   of 
Lake  Ontario.      But  the  greater  part  of  the  Indians  live 
in  a  settlement  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  village,  and 
are  not  generally  seen  by  visiters. 

These  Indians  came  from  North  Carolina  about  the 
year  1712,  and  joined  the  confederacy  of  the  Five  Na- 
tions, themselves  making  the  Sixth.  They  formerly 
held  a  very  valuable  interest  in  land  in  North  Carolina, 
but  have  recently  sold  it  and  divided  the  proceeds  equally 


(£.  «f^. 


fy  ■'* . 


.« 


74 


BOOK    OF 


Tiisciirorii  Indiiins. 


among  themselves.  Many  of  tliem  are  in  very  prosper- 
ous circumstances;  in  the  year  1834,  one  man  grovved 
aad  gathered  fifty  acres  of  wheat. 

Visiters  at  the  Falls  have  been  in  the  habit  of  going, 
sometimes  in  crowds,  to  this  village  on  the  Sabbath;  but 
the  Indians  with  their  Missionary,  have  often  expressed 
their  desire  that  visiters  would  not  interrupt  them  at  that 
time.  It  is  his  impression,  that  such  kind  of  visits  and 
their  accompaniments,  and  made  too  by  such  multitudes, 
have  such  an  influence  upon  the  Indians,  as  completely 
to  counteract  his  efforts,  for  the  time  being,  in  their  be- 
half; and  he  has  therefore  adopted  the  practice,  on  such 
occasions,  of  directing  his  preaching  entirely  to  the  visit- 
ers. The  Indians  complain  of  being  interrupted,  crowd- 
ed, and  made  a  gazing  stock,  and  of  having  a  constant 
example  of  Sabbath-breaking  set  before  them  and  their 
children  ;  and  that,  too,  by  those  from  whom  they  are 
taught  to  expect  better  things. 


*i'« 


^ 


m 


'I. 


'.•.iMiik. 


■'^- 


L-^'/Ak^iii-li^.  I 


"J. 


THE    FALLS. 


75 


Battles. 


BATTLES. 


*•'- 


In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Falls  many  incident!} 
have  occurred  to  impart  an  additional  interest.  This  was 
the  scene  of  a  number  of  battles  fought  during  the  last 
war  with  Great  Britain  ;  those  at  Fort  Erie,  Chippewa, 
and  Lundy's  Lane,  were  among  the  most  bloody  and 
hard-fought,  that  are  recorded  in  history.  In  the  battle 
near  Fort  Erie  there  was,  what  has  generally  been  consi- 
dered, a  Military  Chef  d'ceuvre  ;  the  Americans,  to  the 
number  of  1000  regulars  and  1000  of  the  militia,  made  a 
sortie  and  took  the  British  works  about  500  yards  from 
their  line,  and  returned  in  triumph.  The  battles  in  this 
region  occurred  in  the  following  order  ;  viz  :  at  Queens- 
ton,  October  13, 1812  ;  at  York,  April  27,  1813  ;  at  Fort 
George,  May  27,  do  ;  at  Stoney  Creek,  June  5,  do  ;  at 
Beaver  Dams,  June  24,  do  ;  Naval  Battle  on  Lake  Erie, 
September  10,  do  ;  the  villages  of  Niagara  Falls,  liewis- 
ton,  and  Youngstown,  burnt  December  ]  9,  do  ;  Buffalo 
and  Black  Rock  burnt  December  31,  do  ;  Fort  Erie  taken 
July  3,  1814  ;  battle  of  Chippewa,  July  C,  do  ;  at  Bridg- 
water or  Lundy's  Lane,  July  25,  do  ;  at  Fort  Erie,  Au- 
gust 15,  and  September  17, 1814.     The  burning  of  villages 


it) 


BOOK    OF 


Iiri(tu«'H. 


and  plunder  of  projierty  on  the  American  side,  are  hUU 
remembered,  and  tlie  circumstances  detailed  with  thrillinjj 
interest,  by  many  of  the  inhabitants. 


I)  n  I  n  G  £  s . 


In  the  year  1817,  a  bridge  was  constructed  from  the 
shore  across  the  ra})id8  to  the  head  of  Goat  island,  but 
was  swept  away  by  tlie  ice  the  ensuing  spring.  The 
present  bridge  was  constructed  in  1818,  and  is  forty-four 
rods  in  length,  exclnsive  of  Bath  Island.  This  bridge, 
though  crossing  the  foaming  rapids  only  sixty-four  rods 
above  the  Falls,  over  which  visiters  are  at  first  disposed  to 
walk  lightly  and  w^itli  quickened  pace,  is  perfectly  safe 
for  all  kinds  of  teams  and  carriages,  and  seems  destined  to 
stand  a  great  length  of  time.  Multitudes  inquire,  with 
wonder  and  eager  curiosity,  how  it  could  have  been  con- 
structed in  this  imminently  dangerous  place. 

They  shall  be  informed  ;  and  they  will  see  that,  like  a 
thousand  other  difficult  things,  it  was  easily  accomplish- 
ed, when  the  how  was  ascertained.  Two  very  long  tim- 
bers were  thrust  out  from  the  shore  en  an  abutment, 
having  the  forward  ends  elevated  a  little  above  the  rapids, 
and  the  others  firmly  secured  upon  the  bank;  these  were 


THE   FALLS. 


77 


MilHTltlri,  <&.c. 


then  covered  with  ])lank  for  a  temporary  bridge.  At  the 
extremity  of  tiiis  bridge,  very  large  stones  were  let  down 
into  the  river,  around  which  timbers  were  sunk,  locked 
together  so  as  to  form  a  frame,  which  was  afterwards 
filled  with  stone.  To  this,  constituting  the  first  pier,  u 
firm  bridge  was  then  constructed,  and  the  temporary 
bridge  shoved  forward  so  as  to  build  a  second  pier  like  the 
first,  and  so  on,  till  the  whole  was  completed.  The 
honor  of  projecting  and  constructing  this  bridge  belongs 
jointly  and  equally  to  the  proprietors,  the  Honorable  Au- 
gustus and  General  Peter  B.  Porter. 

Till  the  year  1817,  there  was  no  way  of  descending  or 
ascending  the  bank  below  the  Falls,  except  by  a  ladder 
about  one  hundred  feet  in  length  ;  since  then,  a  safe  and 
convenient  flight  of  stairs  has  been  built,  by  which  visit- 
ers can  have  an  easy  descent  to  the  ferry,  and  an  oppor- 
tunity to  pass  a  considerable  distance  behind  the  magnifi- 
cent sheet  of  water.  Perhaps  there  is  no  place  where  the 
height  of  the  fall  is  so  impressively  realized  as  here. 


i 


MINERALS,    ETC. 


At  a  number  of  shops  near  the  Falls,  as  Mr.  Jacobs' 

and  Mr.  Hooker's  on  the  American  side,  and  Mr.  Shul- 

•y  * 


jatuL 


•-f*-    I     •     >^X', 


78 


HOOK  OF 


llU*i  l«'llt<). 


terKburjfli'M,  Mr.  Jiiirnett'H  and  Mr.  Starkny'H  on  the 
Canada  side,  may  bn  iuul  rich  specinienH  of  the  mineral, 
fosnil,  vfipctablo,  ntu\  animal  productionH  oftho  vicinity  ; 
and  a  variety  of  elejrnnt  articles  of  Indian  manufacture, 
HUch  as  ornamented  moccaHins,  work-bajrs  and  baNketn, 
belts,  bracelets,  pin-cuHJiionH,  &c.  Amonjr  the  mineralo- 
j^ical  specimens  kept  for  sale  in  ^reat  abundance,  are, 
transparent  crystalized  selenites  ;  snow-white  jufypsum  ; 
calcareous,  bitter,  dog-tooth,  and  fluor  spar  ;  crystalized 
quartz  ;  petrifactions  ;  favasites  and  other  fossils  ;  shells, 
&c.  There  are  also  some  noble  specimens  of  bald  and 
grey  Eagles,  and  other  animals,  with  which  this  region 
abounds. 


I  N  CI  J)ENTS. 


Men  have  occasionally  been  drawn  into  the  rapids  with 
their  boats,  and  carried  over  the  Falls  ;  but  not  a  vestige 
of  them  or  their  boats  has  scarcely  ever  been  found.  The 
great  depth  of  the  water  below,  and  the  milky  foam  and 
tumultuous  agitation  occasioned  by  the  eddies,  whirl- 
pools, and  counter  currents,  make  it  next  to  impossible 
for  any  thing  once  sunk  to  rise  again,  until  carried  so  far 
down  the  stream  as  to  make  fruitless  any  research. 


THE    FALLS. 


n 


liiciiinitH. 


with 
jstige 
The 
and 
rhirl- 
ssible 
30  far 


III  the  yriar  1820,  two  incn,  in  a  titate  of  intoxication, 
fell  RHlcop  in  their  8(3ow  which  was  faHtened  at  the  mouth 
of  (vhipppwa  Oeek  ;  while  there  it  broke  away,  and  they 
awoke  finding  thein»elveB  beyond  the  reach  of  hope,  dash- 
ing over  the  rapidH. 

In  the  year  lKi2,  two  others,  engaged  in  removing 
Nonie  furniture  from  Grand  iHland,  were  by  some  care- 
leKsness  drawn  into  the  rapids,  and  hurried  over  the 
cataract. 

In  1825,  two  more,  in  attempting  on  the  Sabbath  to 
HHiuggle  some  whinkey  across  to  Chippewa,  were  hurried 
into  the  rapids  and  shared  a  similar  fate.  A  story  has 
frequently  been  told  of  an  Indian,  who  fell  asleep  in  his 
canoe  some  miles  above,  and  awoke  in  the  midst  of  the 
rapids;  perceiving  that  all  effort  to  escape  would  be  vain, 
he  turned  his  bottle  of  whiskey  down  his  throat,  and 
composedly  awaited  the  awful  plunge.  This  story  the 
writer  believes  to  be  fabulous,  as  he  has  never  been  able 
to  find  any  foundation  for  it,  except  that  it  is  a  stereotype 
Indian  story,  told  as  having  happened  at  all  the  different 
Falls  in  the  country. 

In  September  1827,  notice  having  been  given  in  the 
newspapers  that  the  Michigan,  a  large  vessel  that  had 
run  on  Lake  Erie,  would  be  sent  over  the  Falls,  thirty 
thousand  people,  it  was  supposed,  assembled  to  witness 
the  novel  spectacle.    On  board  of  this  vessel  were  put  two 


#.'■' 


■'■,  1 


60 


BOOK    OP 


Vessels  driven  ov,  r  the  Falls. 


bears,  a  buffalo,  two  rackoons,  a  dog,  and  a  goose  ;  the 
bears  leaped  off  in  the  midst  of  the  rapids,  and  miracu- 
lously almost,  finally  rea.?hed  the  shore  in  safety.  The 
others  went  over  and  perished.  The  Michigan  before  she 
reached  the  Falls,  having  been  considerably  broken  in  the 
rapids,  sunk  to  a  level  with  the  surface,  and  went  over 
near  t?  t  centre  of  the  horse-shoe  fall.  The  distance  from 
deck  to  keel  was  sixteen  feet ;  and  as  she  did  not  appear 
to  touch  the  bottom  for  eighty  rods  before  she  went  over, 
the  conclusion  is,  that  the  water  as  it  passes  over  the  pre- 
cipice there  must  be  at  least  twenty  feet  deep. 

In  October  1829,  another  vessel,  the  Superior,  was 
advertised  to  be  sent  over,  which  drew  together  about 
fifteen  thousand  people.  This  vessel  lodged  in  the  rapids 
and  remained  a  number  of  weeks,  and  finally  passed  over 
the  Falls  in  the  night. 

In  August  1828,  a  small  sloop,  abandoned  by  the  men 
through  fright  near  the  mouth  of  Chippewa  Creek,  was 
blown  with  all  her  sails  up,  so  far  across  the  river  as  to 
come  down  on  the  American  ^ide  of  Goat  Island  ;  but 
was  broken  to  a  perfect  wreck  m  the  rapids,  so  as  to  pass 
under  the  bridge  and  over  the  Falls. 

In  July  1832,  a  canal-boat  was  blown  over  from  Chip- 
pewa, and  lodged  in  the  rapids  a  short  distance  above  the 
Jjridge.     Some  men  and  one  woman  were  on  board,  and 


1 


■% 


THE   FALLS. 


81 


Fall  of  Table  Rock. 


men 

was 

las  to 

but 

pass 

'hip- 
Jethe 
and 


were  saved  at  most  imminent  peril,  and  the  boat  was 
finally  secured  and  drawn  ashore. 

The  rock  at  the  Falls  is  hard  limestone  to  the  depth  of 
about  seventy  feet,  below  which  it  is  loose  crumbling 
shale,  which  is  constantly  wearing  away  and  leaving  a 
projection  of  the  limestone. 

A  mass  of  Table  Rock,  160  feet  in  length  and  from  30 
to  40  feet  in  width,  fell  off  in  July  1818,  with  a  tremen- 
dous crash.  On  the  9th  of  December  1828,  three  immense 
portions  broke  from  the  horse-shoe  fall,  causing  a  shock 
like  an  earthquake.  Another  large  portion  fell  in  the 
summer  of  1829,  and  the  noise  it  occasioned  was  heard 
several  miles.  And  yet,  judging  from  the  published 
accounts  of  the  Falls  which  raach  back  nearly  two  hun- 
dred years,  there  has  been  but  very  littL  recession  of  the 
Falls  within  that  period. 

In  October  1829,  Sam  Patch  jumped  twice,  in  the  pres- 
ence of  thousands  of  spectators,  from  the  top  of  a  ladder 
ninety-seven  feet  high  into  the  eddy  below  the  Falls. 
This  ladder  was  erected  directly  below  the  Biddle  stair- 
case. It  has  been  stated  in  the  public  prints,  that  he 
jumped  116  feet,  125  feet,  &c.  ;  but  those  who  made  and 
erected  the  ladder  probably  knew  best  what  was  its 
lieight.  Poor  Sam  afterwards  lost  his  life  by  jumping 
from  the  Falls  of  Genesee  River  ^t  Rochester. 


.    >  ...a,"   ■  ■  '• 


/Ji:*.,' 


82 


# 


BOOK    OF 


The  lioriiiit  of  Niagurii  Fulls. 


May  19,  1835,  two  men  in  attempting  to  pass  down 
the  river  from  Tonewanta  to  Chippewa  in  a  scow,  were 
driven  by  the  wind  into  the  rapids,  and  one  of  them  went 
over  the  Falls  ;  the  other,  after  leaping  from  the  scow, 
reached  a  shoal  where  he  could  stand  in  the  water  with 
his  head  out.  In  this  situation  he  was  seen  from  the 
American  shore  ;  and  two  men,  at  the  imminent  hazard 
of  their  lives,  went  out  in  a  boat,  and  succeeded  in  saving 
him,  and  returning  safely  to  shore. 

Again  June  10,  1835,  two  men  in  passing  from  Schlos- 
ser  to  Chippewa  in  a  skiff,  were  drawn  into  the  rapids 
and  hurried  to  destruction.  While  in  the  rapids,  they 
were  seen  for  a  short  time  by  persons  on  the  Pavilion. — 
Some  days  afterwards,  tfceir  bodies  were  found  in  an 
eddy  a  mile  below  the  Falls,  one  of  which  v/as  deprived 
of  a  leg  and  an  arm. 


■^ 


THE    HERMIT    OF    NIAGARA    FALLS. 

June  10, 1831,  the  "  Hermit"  was  drowned  while  bath- 
ing in  the  river  below  the  Falls.  The  following  account 
of  this  singular  being  is  abridged  and  condensed  from  one 
drawn  up  and  published  soon  after  his  death. 


.jiiWi  ':>tii.kii4ik.» 


.  .,;.»      ii«-..ti..i.« 


THE    FALLS. 


83 


The  llcrinit  of  Niagura  Fcalls, 


*'  A  young  Englishman,  named  Francis  Abbott,  of  re- 
spectable connexions,  either  through  misfortune  or  a 
morbid  state  of  mind,  which  made  him  desire  seclusion, 
took  up  his  residence  on  Goat  Island,  and  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  Falls,  for  two  years  ;  and  became  so  fas- 
cinated wilh  the  solitude,  and  infatuated  with  tije  scene- 
ry, that  no  inducement  could  divert  his  thoughts,  or  draw 
him  from  the  spot,  where  he  acquired  the  name  of  the 
''Hermit  of  Niagara  Falls." 

He  arrived  on  foot  in  June,  1829,  dressed  in  a  loose 
gown  or  cloak  of  a  chocolate  color,  carrying  under  his 
arm  a  roll  of  blankets,  a  flute,  a  portfolio,  and  a  large 
book  ;  which  constituted  the  whole  of  his  baggage.  He 
took  up  his  abode,  in  the  first  instance,  in  the  small  inn 
of  Ebenezer  Kelly,  on  the  American  side,  stipulating  that 
the  room  he  occupied  should  be  exclusively  his  own,  and 
that  certain  parts  of  his  cooking  only  should  be  done  by 
his  host.  He  then  repaired  to  the  Library,  where  he 
gave  his  name,  and  borrowed  some  books  and  music 
books,  and  purchased  a  violin  ;  the  following  day  he 
again  visited  the  Library,  expatiated  largely,  with  great 
ease  and  ability,  on  the  beautiful  scenery  of  the  Falls, 
and  declared  his  intention  of  remaining  at  least  a  week  ; 
for  "  a  travell<^r  might  as  well,"  he  said,  "  examine  in 
detail  the  various  museums  and  curiosities  of  Paris,  as 
become  acquainted  with  the  splendid  scenery  of  Niagara 


.  ■•■'■;} 


84 


BOOK    OF 


Tlie  Hermit  of  Niiiguru  Fulls. 


.*; 


in  the  same  space  of  time."  On  a  subsequent  visit  he 
declared  his  intention  of  staying  at  least  a  month,  per- 
haps six.  Shortly  after,  he  determined  on  fixing  his  abode 
on  Goat  Island,  and  was  desirous  of  erecting  a  hut,  in 
which  he  might  live  quite  secluded  ;  the  proprietor  of 
the  Island  not  thinking  proper  to  grant  this  request,  he 
occupied  a  small  room  in  the  only  house,  being  occasion- 
ally furnished  with  bread  and  milk  by  the  family,  but 
more  generally  providing  and  always  cooking  his  own 
food.  During  the  second  winter  of  his  seclusion,  the 
family  removed,  and  to  the  few  persons  with  wliom  he 
held  communion,  he  expressed  great  satisfaction  at  being 
able  to  live  alone. 

For  some  time  he  enjoyed  this  seclusion  ;  but  another 
family  having  entered  the  house,  he  quitted  the  Island, 
and  built  himself  a  small  cottage  on  the  main  shore,  about 
thirty  rods  beiow  tlie  j^reat  Fall.  On  the  10th  of  June, 
1831,  he  was  seen  to  bathe  twice,  and  was  observed  by 
the  ferryman  to  enter  the  water  a  third  time  about  two 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon  ;  his  clothes  remaining  some 
hours  where  he  had  deposited  them,  an  alarm  was 
created,  and  an  ineffectual  search  was  made  for  him. 
On  the  21st,  his  body  was  taken  out  of  the  river  at  Fort 
Niagara,  and  was  decently  interred  in  the  burial  ground 
near  the  Falls.  When  his  cottage  was  examined,  his 
dog  was  found  guarding  the  door,  and  was  with  difficulty 


'a*. 


THE    FALLS. 


85 


Tlie  Hermit  of  Niagarii  Falls. 


visit  he 
th,  per- 
is abode 
hut,  in 
rietor  of 
lest,  he 
Bcasion- 
lily,  but 
lis  own 
ion,  the 
horn  he 
at  being 

another 
Island, 
e,  about 
)f  June, 
rved  by 
out  two 
ig  some 
rm  was 
or  him. 
at  Fort 
ground 
led,  his 
ifficult}' 


removed ;  his  cat  occupied  his  bed  ;  his  guitar,  vioUn, 
flutes,  music  books,  and  portfolio,  were  scattered  around 
in  confusion  ;  but  not  a  single  written  paper  of  any  kind 
was  found  (although  he  was  known  to  compose  much)  to 
throw  the  least  light  on  this  extraordinary  character. 
He  was  a  person  of  highly  cultivated  mind  and  manners, 
a  master  of  languages,  deeply  read  in  the  arts  and  scien- 
ces,  and  pej  foimed  on  various  musical  instruments  with 
great  taste  ;  his  drawings  were  also  very  spirited.  He 
had  travelled  over  Europe  and  many  parts  of  the  East, 
and  possessed  great  colloquial  powers  when  inclined  to 
be  sociable  ;  but  at  times  he  would  desire  not  to  be  spo- 
ken to,  and  communicated  his  wishes  on  a  slate  ;  some- 
times for  three  or  four  months  together  he  wouM  go 
unshaved,  with  no  covering  on  his  head,  and  iiis  body 
enveloped  in  a  blanket  ;  shunning  all,  and  seeking  the 
deepest  solitude.  His  age  was  not  more  than  twenty- 
eight,  his  person  well  made,  and  his  features  handsome. 

Many  spots  on  Goat  Island  are  consecrated  to  his 
memory :  at  the  upper  end  he  established  his  walk, 
which  became  hard  trod  and  well  beaten  ;  between  the 
Island  and  Moss  Island  was  his  favorite  retreat  for 
bathing  ;  here  he  resorted  at  all  seasons  of  the  year, 
even  in  the  coldest  weather,  when  ice  was  on  the  river ; 
on  the  bridge  to  the  Terrapin  Rocks,  it  wah  his  daily 
practice  to  walk  for  hours,  from  one  extrfciolty  to  the 
8 


»w 


89 


BOOK    OF 


Village  of  Ningaru  FuUd. 


other,  with  a  quick  pace  ;  sometimes  he  would  let  him- 
self down  at  the  end  of  the  projecting  timber,  and  hang 
under  it  by  his  hands  and  feet  over  the  terrific  precipice, 
for  fifteen  minutes  at  a  time,  and  in  the  wildest  hours  of 
the  night  La  wafj  often  found  walking  in  the  most  danger- 
ous placef.  n{>ar  the  Falls." 

If  \9,  now  ascertained  that  this  Abbott  was  the  son  of 
the  it'.t«  .  )hu  Abbott,  (of Plymouth,  England,)  a  member 
of  t'le  Soc?e\/ of  Friends.  His  guitar,  that  beguiled  so 
many  of  hiR  solitary  hours,  and  soothed  him  in  his  sor- 
rows, is  still  preserved  as  a  curiosity,  and  may  be  seen  at 
Mr.  Hooker's  shop  in  the  village  of  Niagara  Falls. 

*'  Hush'd  is  tlie  lyre— the  hand  that  swept 

The  low  and  pensive  wires, 
Robb'd  of  its  cunning,  from  the  task  retires. 

Yes  — it  is  still— 'ohe  lyre  is  still; 
The  spirit  which  its  slumbers  broke, 
H.ath  pasa'd  away,  —  and  that  weak  hand  that  woke 
Its  forest  melodie?,  iiath  lost  its  skill." 


VILLAGE    OF    NIAGARA    FALLS. 

The  country  in  the  immedis.te  vicinity  of  the  Falls  on 
both  aides  of  the  river,  presents  many  powerful  attrac- 
tions for  a  permanent  residence.     For  salubrity  of  air 


\ 


RV-,     -  ivrf,-      --fa-yir 


THE    FALLS. 


87 


Village  of  Niagara  Falls. 


and  Iiealthfulness  of  climate,  it  yields  to  no  spot  in  the 
United  States.     Here, 

*'  Nature  hath 
The  very  soul  of  music  in  her  looks, 
The  sunshine  and  the  slitide  of  poetry." 

The  latitude  here  is  43  degrees  6  minutes  North,  and 
the  longitude  2  degrees  6  minutes  West  from  Washing- 
ton. The  winters  are  generally  much  milder  than  in 
New  England,  owing,  as  supposed,  to  the  action  of  the 
two  neighboring  Lakes,  that  lie  on  either  side. 

In  a  pamphlet  published  in  London  in  the  year  1834, 
written  by  Robert  Burford,  Esq.  who  spent  the  summer 
and  autumn  of  1832,  in  taking  a  panoramic  view  of  the 
Falls,  it  is  stated  that  this  place  is  **  without  all  question, 
the  most  healthful  of  any  on  the  continent  of  North 
America.  The  heat  of  summer  can  there  be  borne  with 
pleasure,  while  at  the  same  time,  the  annoyance  of  mus- 
quitoes  and  other  insects  is  unknown.  Various  are  the 
conjectures  whence  arises  the  remarkable  salubrity  of 
this  region  ;  but  tJie  most  natural  is,  that  the  agitation 
of  the  surrounding  air  produced  by  the  tremend9us  Falls, 
combines  with  the  elevation  and  dryness  of  the  soil,  and 
absence  of  all  swamps,  to  produce  this  happy  result." 

This  accords  with  Armstrong's  description  in  his  poem 
on  health ; 


:^| 


it 


W 


■^^:i 


m 


BOOK    OF 


Village  of  Niagara  FjiIIs. 


"  The  murmuring  rivulet,  and  the  hoarser  strain 
Of  waters  rushing  o'er  the  slippery  rocks, 
Will  nightly  lull  you  to  ambrosial  rest. 
To  please  the  fancy  is  no  trifling  good, 
Where  health  is  studied ;  for  whatever  moves 
The  mind  with  cahn  delight,  promotes  the  just 
And  natural  movements  of  th'  harmonious  frame. 
Besides,  the  sportive  brook  for  ever  shakes 
The  trembling  air,  that  floats  from  hill  to  hill, 
From  vale  to  mountain,  with  incessant  change 
Of  purest  element,  refreshing  still 
Your  airy  seat." 

In  the  summer  of  1832,  when  the  cholera  raged  in  all 
the  villages  around,  as  Buffalo,  Lockport,  Lewiston,  &c. 
not  a  single  case  oocuned  here.  Again,  when  this  dis- 
ease visited  many  villages  in  the  vicinity  in  the  summer 
of  1834,  this  place  was  wholly  exempt. 

The  village  of  Niagara  Falls  on  the  American  side, 
formerly  called  Manchester,  contains  about  50  families. 
For  ten  years  past  the  population  here  has  been  about 
stationary,  while  the  business  has  been  diminished. 

There  are  two  spacious  Hotels  in  the  village,  the  Eagle 
and  the  Cataract,  which  will  accommodate  one  hundred 
permanent  guests.  The  latter  is  kept  by  General  P. 
Whitney,  long  and  favorably  known  here  in  this  busi- 
ness. The  Eagle  Hotel  has  recently  been  purchased  by 
the  celebrated  Benjamin  Rathbun,  Esq.  of  Buffalo,  and 
it  is  expected  that  he  will  soon  erect  on  the  premises  a 
new  and  splendid  Hotel  commensurate  with  the  wants  of 


THE    FALLS. 


89 


Village  of  Niagara  FvlIU. 


the  travelling  public.  The  village  also  contains  a  Pres- 
byterian Church,  and  a  **  Union  House,"  for  the  use  of 
all  other  denominations  when  they  choose  to  occupy  it. 
It  has  a  Paper  Mill,  a  Flouring  Mill,  and  a  few  Mechan- 
ic's Shops  ;  and  there  is  an  opportunity  of  using  water 
here  to  a  great  extent  for  hydraulic  purposes. 

Canal  boats  and  sloops  come  from  tne  Erie  Canal  and 
the  Lake  to  Porter's  Store-house,  a  short  distance  above 
tlie  Falls  ;  and  charters  have  recently  been  granted  for 
two  Rail-Roads  to  this  place,  —  one  from  Lockport,  and 
the  other  from  Bufralo  ;  —  when  these  go  into  operation, 
the  business  of  this  place  will  probably  be  somewhat 
increased.     Stage  coaches  now  run  from  the  Falls  in  all 
directions,  and  the  mail  passes  regularly  twice  every  day. 
The  roads  from  Buffalo,    Lewiston,   and  Lockport  are 
now  very  good,  equal  to  any  in  this  region,  and  afford  to 
travellers  many  delightful  views  of  the  river,  the  Falls, 
and  the  rapids  ;  —  especially,  as  the  road  from  Bufialo  to 
Lewiston  passes  very  near  the  bank  of  the  river  the  whole 
distance.     The  steamboat  Victory  also  runs  daily  from 
Buffalo  to  the  landing  two  miles  above  the  Falls,   and 
thence  across  to  Chippewa,  stopping  each  way  at  White 
Haven  on  Grand  Island,  and  returns  doily  by  the  same 
route.     This  is  a  perfectly  safe  and  very  pleasant  route 
to  the  Falls.     Another  steamboat  also  runs  daily  from 
Buffalo  directly  to  Chippewa.    At  Lewiston,  seven  miles 


^ 


00 


BOOK   OF 


Canals. .  .Iloads. . . 8team-Bonts. 


beloWj  steamboats  from  Lake  Ontario  are  daily  bringing 
and  receiving  passengers.  Near  Lewiston  commences 
the  celebrated  Ridge  Road,  —  formerly,  without  doubt, 
a  sand  bar  on  the  margin  of  Lake  Ontario,  —  and  runs 
east  to  Rochester  and  thence  nearly  to  Oswego,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  140  miles.  It  runs  parallel  with  the  Lake, 
from  eix  to  ten  miles  distant,  is  from  forty  to  eighty 
yards  wide,  thirty  feet  higher  than  the  contiguous  land, 
and  one  hundred  and  thirty-nine  feet  higher  than  the 
Lake.  It  is  an  excellent  road  at  all  seasons  of  the 
year. 


''<,'-^J^Ai    ';  .  \k'        -^f  i<*r;j^-.--A'..i'«.-(ijV^4dJj-'.'' .•■-    fi^il-'       -ftil/Vi** 


THE  FALLS. 


91 


Number  of  Viaiters. 


>* 


■* 


NUMBER    OF    VISITERS*  ^ 

The  number  of  visiters  at  the  Falls  has  of  late  years 
been  from  twelve  to  fifleen  thousand  annually,  and  the 
number  is  every  year  increasing.  On  the  occasion  of 
sending  the  Michigan  over  the  Falls,  some  years  since, 
from  thirty  to  fifty  thousand  persons  were  supposed  to  be 
here  together,  and  when  the  Superior  was  sent  over, 
fifteen  thousand.  The  fashionable,  the  opulent,  and  the 
learned,  congregate  here  from  the  principal  cities  of  the 
country,  from  the  Southern  and  Western  States,  South 
America,  the  West  Indies,  the  Canadas,  all  parts  of 
Europe,  and  indeed  from  all  countries. 

On  inquiry  at  one  of  the  hotels  on  an  ordinary  occa- 
sion in  the  summer,  it  was  ascertained  th?\t  there  were 
three  foreign  Consuls,  a  Swiss  Colonel,  two  of  Bona- 
parte's Legion  of  Honor  ;  Hamburg,  Madrass,  Ceylon, 
Sidney,  (N.  S.  Wales, )  British,  Spanish,  and  Haytien 
merchants,  a  family  from  Constantinople,  gentlemen  of 
various  professions  from  Berlin,  Moscow,  Madrid,  Ma- 
deria,  and  Malta  ;  five  from  Ireland,  three  from  Scot- 


:^y. 


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92 


■%■< 


BOOK  OF 


Number  of  Visiters. .  .Niagara. 


land,  four  from  England,  and  a  multitude  from  all  parts 
of  the  United  States.  Exiled  monarchs,  foreign  ambas- 
sadors, whigs,  tories,  radicals,  royalists,  naval  and  mili- 
tary officers,  governors,  judges,  lawyers,  senators,  &c. 
with  a  good  proportion  of  female  worthies,  assemble 
here  to  view  these  indescribable  works  of  God.  One  of 
these  last,  during  a  visit  here  in  the  summer  of  1834, 
penned  the  following  beautiful  lines,  which  are  worthy 
of  being  preserved  as  a  memorial  of  female  wortli  and 
genius. 

NIAGARA. 

.  Flow  on  forever,  in  thy  glorious  robe 
Of  terror  and  of  beauty  !    God  hath  set 
Ilis  rainbow  on  thy  forehead,  and  the  cloud 
Mantles  around  thy  feet.    And  he  doth  give 
The  voice  of  thunder  power  to  speak  of  Him 
Eternally  —  bidding  the  lip  of  man 
Keep  silence,  and  upon  thy  rocky  altar  pour 
Incense  of  awe-struck  praise. 

And  who  can  dare 
To  lift  the  insect  trump  of  earthly  Hope, 
Or  Love,  or  Sorrow,  —  'mid  the  peal  sublime 
Of  thy  tremendous  hymn  ?  —  E'en  Ocean  shrinks 
Back  from  thy  brotherhood,  and  his  wild  waves 
Retire  abashed.  —  For  he  doth  sometimes  seem 
To  sleep  like  a  spent  laborer,  and  recall 
.  His  wearied  billows  from  their  vexing  play. 
And  lull  them  in  a  cradle  calm :  —  but  thou, 
With  everlasting,  undecaying  tide. 
Dost  rest  not,  night  or  day. 

The  morning  stars. 
When  first  they  sang  o'er  young  Creation's  birth. 


l£v 


THE  FALLS. 


99 


parts 
nbas- 
mili- 
,  &c. 
emble 
►ne  of 
1834, 
orthy 
1  and 


Niagara. 


.*• 


Heard  thy  deep  anthem— and  those  wrecking  fires  ,fe^ 

That  wait  th'  Archangel's  signal  to  dissolve 

The  solid  Earth,  shall  find  Jehovah's  name  '( 

Graven,  as  with  a  thousand  diamond  spears,      .     .^.. 

On  thine  unfathomed  page.    Each  leafy  bough, 

That  lifts  itself  within  thy  proud  domain, 

Doth  gather  greenness  from  thy  living  spray, 

And  tremble  at  the  baptism,    Lo !  yon  bird^) 

Do  venture  boldly  near,  bathing  their  w^ng 

Amid  thy  foam  and  mist.  —  'Tis  meet  for  theiq  ,., 

To  touch  thy  garment's  hem, — or  lightly  stir 

Thesnowy  leaflets  of  thy  vapor  wreath, — 

Who  sport  unharmed  upon  the  fleecy  cloud. 

And  listen  at  the  echoing  gate  of  Heaven, 

Without  reproof,    But,  as  for  us,— it  seems 

Scarce  lawful  with  our  broken  tones  to  speak 

Familiarly  of  thee.    Methinks,  to  tint 

Thy  glorious  features  with  our  pencil's  point, 

Or  woo  thee  to  the  tablet  of  a  song,  ^  ^ 

Were  profanation. 

Thou  dost  make  the  soul      . .   '. . 
A  wandering  witness  of  thy  majesty ; 
And  while  it  rushes  with  delirious  joy 
To  tread  thy  vestibule,  dost  chain  its  step, 
And  check  its  rapture,  with  the  humbling  view 
Of  its  own  nothingness — bidding  it  stand 
In  the  dread  presence  of  th' Invisible, 

As  if  to  answer  to  its  God  through  thee. 

Hartford,  Conn.  >  •      -.•        *  •      ,    -■ 


i.'tM 


4;, 


L.  n.  s, 


This  will  no  doubt  hereafte:;  become  a  place  of  great 
resort  for  invalids,  as  the  health  of  such  is  generally 
observed  tp  improve  imniediately  on  coming  here.  If  any 
place  in  the  country  is  peculiarly  propitious  for  the  reco* 
yer;)r  and  preservation  of  health,  this  is  the  place, 


94 


BOOK   OF 


Visiters. .  .Parties,  &c. 


During  the  winter  months,  though  there  are  many 
visiters,  they  are  generally  such  as  are  passing  through 
the  region  on  business,  and  stay  only  a  short  time.  Fre- 
quently, however,  parties  from  Buffalo,  Lockport,  Roch- 
ester, Canandaigua,  and  other  places,  visit  the  Falls  by 
sleighing ;  and  after  spending  a  day  or  two,  go  away 
enraptured  with  the  scene. 

Many  visiters  err  greatly  in  their  calculations  in  regard 
to  the  time  which  they  ought  to  spend  here.  They 
come  hundreds  and  sometimes  thousands  of  miles  to  view 
the  Falls,  and  then  hurry  away  before  they  have  had 
time  to  get  any  very  full  or  distinct  impression  of  the 
scene,  or  to  visit  one-fifth  of  the  interesting  points,  from 
which  the  Falls  and  rapids  ought  to  be  viewed.  The 
object  of  the  visit  is  thus  in  a  great  measure  lost.  Visit- 
ers ought  to  make  their  calculations,  in  the  summer 
especially,  to  spend  at  least  a  week,  and  then  they  will 
begin  to  feel  some  regret  at  leaving.  A  distinct  and 
lasting  impression  can  be  obtained  only  by  looking  at 
single  portions  and  objects  at  a  time,  and  examining 
these  frequently  and  from  different  positions. 

<<  The  sight  of  nature  in  her  magnificence,  or  in  her 
beauty,  or  in  her  terror,  has  at  all  times  an  overpowering 
interest,  which  even  habit  cannot  greatly  weaken ;"  and 
let  none  have  any  apprehensions  that  the  scenes  here 
will  lose  their  interest  by  familiarity.  - 


THE     FALLS. 


95 


Places  of  resort  in  the  vicinity  of  the  FoilH. 

Persons  who  spend  some  time  at  the  Falls,  will  find 
several  places  in  the  vicinity,  on  both  sides  of  the  river, 
worthy  of  a  special  visit.  Eleven  miles  south,  on  the 
American  side,  is  the  village  of  Tonewanta,  from  which 
there  is  a  ferry  across  to  White  Haven  on  Grand  Island; 
proceeding  eleven  miles  further,  you  pass  through  Black 
Rock  to  Buffalo  and  Lake  Erie.  Going  north  from  the 
Falls  two  miles,  you  find  the  Mineral  Spring  ;  one  mile 
further  the  Whirlpool ;  half  a  mile  further,  the  Devil's 
Hole  ;  eight  miles  from  the  Falls  the  village  of  the  Tus- 
carora  Indians ;  seven  miles,  Lewiston  village,  where 
the  steam-boats  from  I  ^ke  Ontario  receive  passengers  ; 
seven  miles  below  Lewiston  is  the  village  of  Youngstown, 
and  one  mile  further  Fort  Niagara  standing  on  the  border 
of  the  Lake.  ,     . 

From  the  Falls  on  the  Canada  side,  one  mile  souths 
brings  you  to  the  burning  spring :  two  and  a  half  miles 
to  Chippewa  battle  ground  and  village ;  twenty  miles 
through  the  village  of  Waterloo  to  Fort  Erie  near  Lake 
Erie.  From  the  Falls  north,  one  mile  brings  you  to  Lun- 
dy's  Lane,  where  the  battle  of  Bridge  water  was  fought  ; 
three  and  a  half  miles  to  the  whirlpool ;  six  and  a  half  to 
Queenston  Heights  and  Brock's  Monument ;  seven 
miles  to  Queenston  village,  opposite  Lewiston;  and 
fourteen  miles  to  the  village  of  Niagara  and  Fort  George. 
Eight  miles  from  the  Falls  west,  is  the  "Deep  Cut,"  so 


-•  i 


■ir^r^L  .M.5-. 


■  ■^■^^ 


1)6 


Book  or 


Kouteti  und  ChargOH. 


called)  of  the  Wetland  Canal,  a  place  much  visited  in  the 
summer.  To  carry  you  to  any  or  all  of  these  places, 
carriages  can  always  be  had  at  a  few  moments'  notice  on 
either  side  of  tlie  river.  -r      > 


,  r".   .'i     f 


ROUTES   AND   CIIARO£S< 

Evei-y  traveller  may  be  presumed  to  know  his  way  to 
the  Falls,  and  to  be  capable  of  choosing  his  mode  of  con^ 
veyance.    The  general  routes  are,  —  from  New  England, 

l4  New- York,  or  the  southern  cities, -^  by  steamboat,  and 

stage,  or  by  the  Erie  Canal.     From  Montreal,  Kingston, 

"^  Toronto)  Sackets'  Harbor,  or  Oswego, — by  steamboat 

through  Lake  Ontario  to  Niagara  or  Lewiston ;  on  which 
Lake,  about  twenty  steamboats  are  in  operation.  From 
the  Southern  and  We  jlern  States,  —  by  steamboat 
through  Lake  Erie,  where  you  will  find  more  than  thirty 
in  operation.  Persons  wishing  to  go  from  New-Orleans, 
or  any  of  the  Western  States  to  New-York  or  New  Eng- 
land, and  vice  versa,  will  find  this  route  much  the  plea- 
santest  and  the  cheapest.  The  general  charges  are,  from 
New  York  to  Albany,  $2,00 ;  from  Albany  to  Niagara 


•a..A': 


tnE   FALLS. 


»r 


)  i 


Houten.  . .  Steninlioat  tind  Htiige  Fare. 


Falls  by  packet-boat  on  the  canal,  $13,00 ;  fVora  Niagara 
Falls  to  Buffalo,  $1,00  ;  from  Buffalo  to  Cleveland,  cabin 
passage,  $6,00 ;  from  Buffalo  to  Detroit,  $6,00 ;  to 
Mackinaw  and  Saute  St.  Maria,  $12,00;  and  to 
Chicago,  Green  Bay,  and  St.  Josephs,  $20,00;  from 
Cleveland  to  Pittsburgh,  $G,00  ;  from  Cleveland  or  San- 
dusky to  Cincinnati,  $12,00 ;  from  Pittsburgh  to  Wheel- 
ing, $3,00 ;  thence  to  Cincinnati  by  the  river,  $10,00, 
or  by  stage,  $14,00;  from  Cincinnati  to  Louisville,  $4,00; 
to  New-Orleans,  $25,00 ;  fcturn  the  same ;  from  Cin- 
cinnati to  St.  Louis,  $16,00  ;  from  St.  Louis  to  New- 
Orleans,  $25,00.  These  charges  will  doubtless  be 
reduced,  as  the  facilities  for  travelling  are  increased.  The 
charges  at  the  best  hotels  are  generally^  50  cents  for  din- 
tier  ;  37^  cents  for  breakfast  or  tea ;  and  25  cents  for 
lodging.  Wheti  an  individual  spends  a  number  of  days 
at  a  hotel,  the  charges  are  very  nmch  less.  Charges  on 
Lake  Ontario ;  —  from  Lewiston  to  Toronto,  $2,00 ;  do. 
to  Rochester,  $3,00  ;  do.  to  Kingston,  $7,00  ;  do.  to 
Oswego  and  Sackets  Harbor,  $6,00;  do.  to  Ogdensburgh 
and  Prescott,  $8,00;  do.  to  Montreal,  $15,00 ;  do.  to 
Quebec,  $20,00.  Fare  on  the  canal;  —  in  the  pack- 
ets)  four  cents  per  mile  including  board ;  in  the  line- 
boats,  two  and  a  half  cents  per  mile  including  board. 
Fare  in  stage  coaches,  average  about  $1,00  per  twenty 
miles.  ,  J  ,  ^ 

9 


4 


■#■ 


08 


BOOK    OF 


Kced  tind  Matliesnn's  Description  of  tiu-  FiiIIm. 

lyy  Don't  suffer  yourself  to  be  imposed  upon,  turned 
from  your  route,  and  subjected  to  unnecessary  expense 
and  trouble,  by  interested  boat  and  stage  runners  and 
agents.     Much  complaint  is  made,  and  that  justly,  about 

these  things  of  frequent  occurrence.  XD 


•'"A      . 


APPENDIX. 


*rhe  following  graphic  description  of  Niagara  Falls,  is 

extracted  from  a  work,  entitled  * '  A  Narrative  of  a  Visit 

to  the  American  Churches,"  by  Andrew  Reed,  D.  D.  and 

James  Matheson,  D.  D. 

"  At  length  we  saw  the  spray  rising  through  the  trees, 
and  settling  like  a  white  cloud  over  them  ;  and  then  we 
heard  the  voice  of  the  mighty  waters  —  a  voice  all  its 
own,  and  worthy  of  itself  Have  you  never  felt  a  trem- 
bling backwardness  to  look  on  what  you  have  intensely 
desired  to  see  1  If  not,  you  will  hardly  understand  my 
feeling.  While  all  were  now  searching  for  some  glance 
of  the  object  itself,  I  was  disposed  to  turn  aside,  lest  it 
should  surprise  me.  This,  no  doubt,  was  partly  caused 
by  the  remark  I  had  so  often  heard,  that  the  first  view 
disappoints  you.  I  concluded,  that  this  arose  from  the 
first  view  not  being  a  fair  one,  and  I  was  determined  to 
do  justice  to  the  object  of  my  reverence.  In  fulfilling 
this  purpose,  I  reached  the  Pavilion  without  seeing  any 


:iL^rj.'-:.-t^.i.- 


*  ^5,5,'^}.*?.  -Ui-,-C,'-  ,.",-,~Av.' 


THE    FALLS. 


99 


Reed  and  Matheson'a  Dencription  of  the  Fallf. 


thing  ;  disposed  of  my  affairs  there,  and  hastened  down 
towards  the  Falls  ;  and  found  myself  actually  on  the 
Table  Rock  to  receive  my  first  impressions.  '^»  -->'» 

*<  Let  any  one  pursue  the  same  course,  and  he  will  not 
talk  of  first  impressions  disappointing  him ;  or  if  he 
should,  then  he  ought  to  go  twenty  miles  another  way. 
Niagara  was  not  made  for  him.  .  -* .  H* 

"From  the  Table  Rock  I  descended  to  the  base. 
There  I  clambered  out  on  the  broken  rocks,  and  sat  —  I 
know  not  how  long.  The  day  was  the  least  favourable 
of  any  we  had.  The  atmosphere  was  heavy  ;  the  foam 
Jiung  about  the  object  and  concealed  one  half  of  it ;  and 
the  wind  blew  from  the  opposite  side,  and  brought  the 
spray  upon  you,  so  as  to  wet  you  exceedingly.  The  use 
of  cloak  and  umbrella  were  troublesome  ;  you  could  not 
wholly  forget  your  person,  and  think  only  of  one  thing. 
However,  had  I  not  seen  it  in  this  state  of  the  atmosphere, 
I  should  have  wanted  some  views  which  now  occupy  my 
imagination.  The  whole  is  exceedingly  solemn  Y;i\2n 
nature  frowns  ;  and  when  much  is  hidden,  while  yet  the 
eye  has  not  marked  the  outline,  there  is  a  mysteriousness 
spread  over  the  object  which  suits  your  conception  of  its 
greatness,  and  in  which  the  imagination  loves  to  luxu- 
riate. I  can  scarcely  define  to  you  my  impressions  on  this 
first  day  ;  I  can  scarcely  define  them  to  myself.  I  was 
certainly  not  disappointed  ;  but  1  was  confounded.  I  felt 
as  though  I  had  received  a  shock,  and  required  time  to 

right  mysel^|aijV  .      -.o.  .c,;^     .        ..^.v 

*«  I  retuihfed:t)t)«lihe  Pwvjli(pi,iwiidi;i^  aboulj h^lf  ^' mile 
from  the  J'alls',  Ui*d  'Mh-e*d  'to'  my  elia»iijer',  \vKi^  over- 
looked tJj'eki.  .M  litiis^d  pn  what,!  had  seen,  and  oRras^etill 


I-] 


.4^ 


•t^fS? 


-A*;?w 


100 


BOOK  or 


Rend  and  Mutheeon's  Uoscrlption  of  the  FhIIh. 


confounded.  1  sought  rest  that  1  might  be  freHh  for  the 
morrow  ;  but  rest  did  not  come  so  freely.  The  continu- 
ous deep  sounds  of  the  waters  would  have  sung  me  to 
sleep,  but  the  tremour  of  the  house  and  ground,  which 
shook  the  windows  like  those  of  a  stagecoach,  kept  me 
wakeful ;  and  when  I  fell  into  slumbers,  the  flitting 
dreams  of  what  I  had  seen,  would  trouble  and  break 
tUem.    '■    *i )  ■  ■  ■ .  '       ■»•.  '•  .-'; "  -• 

'*  Notwithstanding  all  disturbances,  I  rose  on  the  next 
morning  in  good  spirits.  The  day  was  all  that  could  be 
wished.  The  sun  shining,  the  heavens  transparent,  gar- 
nished with  bright  and  peaceful  clouds.  The  wind,  too, 
was  gentle  and  refreshing ;  and  had  Nhifted  to  our  side, 
to  as  to  promise  the  nearest  points  of  sight  without  the 
discomfort  of  getting  wet  through. 

<*  1  now  looked  fairly  on  the  scene  as  it  presented  itself 
at  my  windpw»  in  the  fair  lights  of  the  morning.  It  is 
composed  rather  of  the  accompaniments  of  the  fall  than 
of  the  fall  itself.  You  look  up  the  river  full  ten  miles, 
and  it  runs  in  this  part  from  two  to  three  miles  in  breadth. 
Here  it  has  formed,  in  its  passage,  beautiful  little  bays  ; 
and  there  it  has  worked  through  the  slips  of  mainland, 
puttinif  out  the  fragments  as  so  many  islets  to  decorate 
its  surface ;  while,  on  either  hand,  it  is  bounded  by  the 
original  forests  of  pine.  At  the  upper  extremity  you  see 
the  blue  waters  calmly  resting  under  the  more  cerulean 
heavens ;  while  nearer  to  you  it  becomes  agitated,  like  a 
strong  man  preparing  to  x\fn  %  racew  It  s^t^eilc,"  and  foams , 
and  rQCi[>Hs,'a8  thoiig&^t  wet^  ^cfpin^ttffii  io'some  despe- 
rate iseue^'aAii"  tdt^fti' suddenly  contracts' its  dimensions, 

as  if -tp"  gatlwf  up  "all*  ilfi*  »povJ^^' for*  ^he  mlp^hty  leap 

^  i       • ,    . «      •  •    ■'  ,• '    ■  ' '  I    ,' .  .  i  ' .  '  .'    » 


1 . 


_^--,V')iJ'.K-fi: 


,il' 


THE   FA  M.S. 


101 


L.  .«l  1111(1  IMiitlifHoii'ri  Dcurriptiun  of  the  Fulla. 


I  ■ 


it  is  about  to  make.     This  la  all  you  see  here  ;  and  it  in 
enough. 

*'  1  left  the  hotel,  and  went  down  to  the  Table  Rock. 
This  is  usually  deemed  the  great  point  of  sight ;  and  for 
an  upper  view  it  undoubtedly  is.    It  is  composed  of  seve- 
ral ledges  of  rock,  having  different  advantages,  and  pro- 
jecting as  far  over  the  gulf  below  as  they  can  to  be  safe. 
But  how  shall  I  describe  the  objects  before  me  ?     The 
mysterious  veil  which  lay  heavily  yesterday  on  a  large 
part  of  it,  was  now  removed  ;  and  the  outline  of  the  pic- 
ture was  mostly  seen.     An  ordinary  picture  would  have 
suffered  by  this;  but  here  the  real  dimensions  are  so  vast, 
and  so  far  beyond  what  the  eye  has  mearured,  that  to  see 
them  is  not  to  fetter,  but  to  assist  the  imagination.  This 
fall,  which  is  called  the  Horseshoe  Fall,  is  upwards  of 
two  thousand  feet  in  extent,  and  makes  a  leap,  on  an 
average,  of  about  200  feet.     Now  just  enlarge  your  con- 
ceptions to  these  surprising  dimensions,   and  suppose 
yourself  to  be  recumbent  on  the  projecting  rock  which  I 
have  named,  as  near  the  verge  as  you  dare,  and  I  will 
assist  you  to  look  at  the  objects  as  they  present  them- 
selves. 

**  You  see  not  now  above  the  cataract  the  bed  of  the 
river ,  but  you  still  see  the  foaming  heads  of  the  rapids, 
like  waves  of  the  ocean,  hurrying  to  the  precipice  ;  and 
over  them  the  light  clouds  which  float  on  the  horizon. — 
Then  comes  the  chute  itself.  It  is  not  in  the  form  of  the 
horseshoe;  it  is  not  composed  of  either  circular  or  straight 
lines ;  but  it  partakes  of  both  ;  and  throughout  it  is 
marked  by  projections  and  indentations,  which  give  an 
amazing   variety  of  form  and   aspect.     With  all  this 


m 


BOOK  or 


Reed  and  Mathcson's  Description  oftlin  Fulln. 

variety  it  is  one.     It  has  all  the  power  which  is  derived 
from  unity,  and  none  of  the  stiffness  which  belongs  to 
uniformity.     There  it  falls  in  one  dense  awful  mass  of 
green  waters,  unbroken  and  resistless  ;  here  it  is  broken 
into  drops,  and  falls  like  a  sea  of  diamonds  sparkling  in 
the  sun.    Now  it  shoots  forth  like  rockets  in  endless  sue- 
cession ;  and  now  it  is  so  light  and  foaming  that  it  dan- 
ces in  the  sun  as  it  goes,  and  before  it  has  reached  the 
pool,  it  IS  driven  up  again  by  the  ascending  currents  of 
air.     Then  there  is  the  deep  expanding  pool  below. — 
Where  the  waters  pitch,  all  is  agitation  and  foam,  so  that 
the  foot  of  the  fall  is  never  seen ;  and  beyond  it  and 
away,  the  waters  spread  themselves  out  like  a  rippling 
sea  of  liquid  alabaster.     This  last  feature  is  perfectly 
unique,  and  you  would  think  nothing  could  add  to  its 
exquisite  loveliness ;  but  there  lies  on  it,  as  if  they  were 
made  for  each  other,  "heaven's  own  bow."     O  never 
had  it,  in  heaven  itself,  so  fair  a  resting-place  I 

'<  Besides,  by  reason  of  the  different  degrees  of  rarity 
in  the  waters  and  the  atmosphere,  the  sun  is  pervading 
the  whole  scene  with  unwonted  lights  and  hues.  And 
the  foam  which  is  flying  off  in  all  directions,  is  insensibly 
condensed,  and  forms  a  pillar  of  cloud,  which  moves  over 
the  scene,  as  it  once  did  over  the  tents  of  Israel,  and 
apparently  by  the  same  bidding,  giving  amazing  variety, 
and  sublimity,  and  unearthliness  to  the  picture.  Then 
there  is  sound  as  well  as  sight ;  but  what  sound  !  it  is 
not  like  the  sea;  nor  like  the  thunder;  nor  like  any  thing 
I  have  heard.  There  is  no  roar,  no  rattle;  nothing  sharp- 
er angry  in  its  tones ;  it  is  deep,  awful,  one  ! 


I 


THX    FALLS. 


lor? 


Reed  and  Matheson'i  Description  of  the  Falli. 


\ 


<<  Well,  as  soon  as  I  could  disengage  myself  from  this 
spot,  I  descended  to  the  bed  of  the  fall.  I  am  never  sat- 
isfied with  any  fall  till  I  have  availed  mys?lf  of  the  very 
lowest  standing  it  supplies  ;  it  is  there  usually  that  you 
become  susceptible  of  its  utmost  power.  1  scrambled , 
therefore,  over  the  dislocated  rocks,  and  put  myself  as 
near  as  possible  to  the  object  which  I  wished  to  absorb 
me.     I  was  not  disappointed.       •;  .**,   .  . 

**  There  were  now  fewer  objects  in  the  picture  ;  but 
what  you  saw  had  greater  prominence  and  power  over 
you.  Every  thing  ordinary  —  foliage,  trees,  hills  —  was 
shut  out;  the  smaller  attributes  of  the  fall  were  also  ex- 
cluded ;  and  1  was  left  alone  with  its  own  greatness.  At 
my  feet  the  waters  were  creaming,  swelling,  and  dashing 
away,  as  if  in  terror,  from  the  scene  of  conflict,  at  the 
rate  of  twenty  miles  an  hour.  Above  and  overhanging 
me  was  the  Table  Rock,  with  its  majestic  form,  and  dark 
and  livid  colors,  threatening  to  crush  one.  While  imme- 
diately before  me  was  spread  in  all  its  height  and 
majesty  —  not  in  parts,  but  as  a  whole,  beyond  what  the 
eye  could  embrace  —  the  unspeakable  cataract  itself; 
with  its  head  now  touching  the  horizon,  and  seeming  to 
fall  direct  from  heaven,  and  rushing  to  the  earth  with  a 
weight  and  voice  which  made  the  rocks  beneath  and 
around  me  fearfully  to  tremble.  Over  this  scene  the 
cloud  of  foam  mysteriously  moved,  rising  upward,  so  as 
to  spread  itself  partly  on  the  face  of  the  fall,  and  partly 
on  the  face  of  the  sky;  while  over  all  were  seen  the  beau- 
tiful and  soft  colors  of  the  rainbow,  forming  almost  an 
entire  circle,  and  crowning  it  with  celestial  glory.    But 


Q** 


flk. 


104 


BOOK  OF 


Reed  and  Matheson's  Description  of  the  Falls. 

it  is  vain.    The  power,  the  sublimity,  the  beauty,  the 
bhss  of  that  spot,  of  that  hour — it  cannot  be  told. 

**When  fairly  exhausted  by  intensity  of  feeling,  I 
strolled  away  towards  the  ferry,  to  pass  over  to  the  Ame- 
rican side.  The  Falls  here,  from  the  distance,  have  a 
plain  and  uniform  aspect ;  but  this  wholly  disappears  on 
approacliing  them.  They  are  exceedingly  fine.  They 
do  not  subdue  you  as  on  the  Canadian  side  ;  but  they 
fill  you  with  a  solemn  and  delightful  sense  of  their  gran- 
deur and  beauty.  The  character  of  the  one  is  beautifUl, 
inclining  to  the  sublime  ;  and  that  of  the  other,  the  sub- 
lime, inclining  to  the  beautiful.  There  is  a  single  slip  of 
the  fall  on  this  side,  which,  in  any  other  situation,  would 
be  regarded  as  a  most  noble  cataract.  It  falls  upwards 
of  200  feet ;  it  is  full  20  feet  wide  at  the  point  of  fall, 
and  spreads  itself  like  a  fan  in  failing,  so  as  to  strike  on 
a  line  of  some  50  or  60  feet.  It  has  great  power  and 
beauty. 

<<I  found  that  there  was  a  small  ledge  of  rock  behind 
this  fall,  and  ventured  on  it  to  about  the  centre.  You 
can  stand  here  without  getting  at  all  wet ;  the  waters 
shoot  out  several  feet  before  you ;  and,  if  you  have 
nerve,  it  is  entirely  safe.  I  need  not  say  that  the  nov- 
elty and  beauty  of  the  situation  amply  reward  you.  You 
are  behind  the  sheet  of  water,  and  the  sun  is  shining  on 
its  face,  illuminating  the  whole  body  with  a  variety  pro- 
portioned to  its  density.  Here,  before  you,  the  heavy 
waters  fall  in  unbroken  columns  of  bright  green.  There, 
they  flow  down  like  a  shower  of  massy  crystals,  radiant 
with  light,  and  emitting  at?  they  fall  all  the  prismatic 
colors ;    while  there,  again,   they  are  so  broken  and 


.1 


j^''^"'"^*' 


,,/<■■".  •  y^ 


THE   FALLS. 


m 


Reed  and  Matheson's  Description  of  the  Falls. 


I 


divided,  as  to  resemble  a  shower  of  gems  sparkling  in 
light,  and  shooting  across  the  blue  heavens.  *  ' - 

**  I  passed  by  what  is  called  Goat  Island  to  the  extre- 
mity of  the  Horseshoe  Fall  on  tliis  side.  There  is  car- 
ried out  over  the  head  of  this  fall  a  limb  of  timber,  with 
a  hand-rail  to  it.  It  projects  some  12  feet  over  the  abyss, 
and  is  meant  to  supply  the  place  of  the  Table  Rock  on 
the  other  side.  It  does  so  in  a  great  measure  ;  and  as, 
while  it  is  quite  as  safe,  it  gives  you  far  less  sense  of 
safety,  it  disposes  you  the  more  to  sympathize  with  ob- 
jects of  terror.  Indeed,  when  you  fairly  get  to  the  extre- 
mity, and  find  yourself  standing  out  in  this  world  of  wa- 
ters on  a  slip  of  wood  only  large  enough  for  your  feet  to 
rest  on,  and  which  is  quivering  beneath  you  ;  when  the 
waters  are  rushing  down  under  you;  when  the  spray  is 
flying  over  you  ;  and  when  the  eye  seeks  to  fathom  the 
unfathomable  and  boisterous  gulf  below ;  you  have,  per- 
haps, as  much  of  the  terrible  as  will  consist  with  gratifi- 
cation. Very  many  of  the  visiters  never  think  of  encoun- 
tering this  point  of  view  :  those  who  do  and  have  a  taste 
for  it  will  never  forget  it.  It  is  among  the  finest  of  the 
fine.  '■■     ■         '  ■  '  -i-i'/ivTrAi- 

**  In  returning,  I  wandered  round  the  little  island.  It 
is  covered  with  forest- trees  of  a  fine  growth,  and  is  full 
of  picturesque  beauty.  Days  miglit  be  spent  here  in 
happy  and  deep  seclusion ;  protected  from  the  burning 
sun  ;  regaled  by  lovely  scenes  of  nature,  and  the  music 
of  the  sweetest  waters  ;  and  in  fellowship,  at  will,  with 
the  mighty  Falls.  r-  ,       < 

"The  next  morning  was  the  last ;  and  it  was  given 
wholly  to  the  Great  Fall.    I  prepared,  in  the  first  instance, 


106 


BOOK   OF 


Reed  and  Matheson's  Description  of  the  Falls. 


to  go  behind  it.  This  is  the  chief  adventure  ;  and  is  by 
most  writers  described  as  dangerous.  There  is  no  dan- 
ger if  the  overhanging  rocks  keep  their  places,  and  if  you 
have  moderate  self-possession.  I  made  use  of  the  oil- 
cloth dress  provided  by  the  guide,  and  was  quarrelling 
with  it  as  damp  and  uncomfortable  ;  but  that  grievance 
was  quickly  disposed  of.  1  had  not  made  my  entrance 
behind  the  scenes  before  I  was  drenched,  and  the  less  I 
had  on  the  better.  However,  it  was  an  admirable  shower- 
j  bath;  and  there  was  an  end  to  the  question  of  wet  or 
dry.  "  Take  care  of  your  bre?,th,"  was  the  cry  of  the 
guide  ;  and  I  had  need,  for  it  was  almost  gone.  On 
making  a  further  advance,  I  recovered  it,  and  felt 
relieved.  "Now  give  me  your  hand,"  said  the  guide  ; 
**this  is  the  narrowest  part."  Onward  I  went,  till  he 
assured  me  that  I  was  on  Termination  Rock ;  the 
extreme  point  accessible  to  the  foot  of  man.  ^ 

"  As  the  labor  of  the  foot  was  over,  and  there  was 
good  standing,  I  determiaed  on  making  the  best  use  of 
my  eyes.  But  this  it  was  not  so  easy  to  do.  The  spray 
and  waters  were  driving  in  my  face,  and  coursing  down 
my  sides  most  strangely  :  a  strong  wind  from  the  foot  of 
the  fall  was  driving  in  the  opposite  direction,  so  as  to 
threaten  not  to  blow  me  down,  but  to  blow  me  up  to  the 
roof  of  the  vault.  However,  I  soon  ascertained  that  we 
were  at  the  extremity  of  a  cavern  of  large  and  wonderful 
construction.  It  is  in  the  form  of  a  pointed  arch  ;  the 
one  span  composed  of  rolling  and  dense  water,  and  the 
other  of  livid  black  rocks.  It  was  some  50  feet  from  the 
footing  of  the  rock  to  that  of  the  water,  and  I  had  entered 
about  70  feet.     On  the  entrance,  which  is  mostly  of 


THE   FALLS. 


107 


Reed  and  Matheson's  Description  of  the  Falls. 


'i 


thinner  waters,  the  sun  played  ch^^rfully,  and  with  glow- 
ing power ;  but  within  it  was  contrasted  by  the  dim 
light  and  heavy  obscurity  which  are  generated  by  the 
density  of  the  fall,  to  which  the  whole  power  of  the  sup. 
can  give  only  a  semi- transparency.  What  with  this 
visible  gloom,  the  stunning  noise  of  the  fall,  and  the 
endless  commotion  of  wind  and  waters,  the  effect  is  most 
singular  and  awful.  It  is  a  scene  that  would  harmonize 
with  the  creations  of  Fuseli ;  and  it  has,  I  will  venture 
to  say,  real  horrors  beyond  what  the  cave  of  old  iEolus 
ever  knew.  '     '• 

"  On  returning  to  ray  dressing-room,  I  received  a  cer- 
tificate from  the  guide  that  I  had  really  been  to  Termina- 
tion Rock;  an  ingenious  device  to  give  importance  to  his 
vocation,  but  in  the  success  of  which  he  does  not  miscal- 
culate on  human  nature.  The  rest  of  the  morning  was 
employed  in  taking  peeps  at  the  Falls  from  favorite  points 
of  observation ;  but  chiefly  on  the  Table  Rock,  and  at 
the  foot  of  the  Great  Fall.  The  day  was  exceedingly 
fine,  and  every  feature  of  the  amazing  scene  was  lighted 
up  with  all  its  beauty  ;  and  I  now  communed  with  it  as 
one  would  with  a  friend  who  has  already  afforded  you 
rich  enjoyment  in  his  society.  I  was  delighted  —  was 
fascinated.  Every  thing,  apart  or  together,  seemed  to 
have  acquired  greater  power  and  expression.  I  studied 
all  the  parts  ;  they  were  exquisite,  lovely,  noble  ;  I  put 
them  all  together,  and  it  overwhelmed  me,  subdued  me, 
fixed  me  to  the  spot.  Long  I  stayed  ;  but  all  time  was 
short.     I  went;  and  returned;  and  knew  not  how  to  go. 

' '  I  have  been  thus  particular  in  my  account  of  these 
Falls,  because  the  world  knows  nothing  like  them  ;  and 


,5!# 


,.,.itV' 


«■ 


'^rtii'' 


108 


BOOK    OF 


llccd  and  Matheaoii's  Description  of  the  Fulls. 

because  I  wished  you  to  participate  in  my  pleasures.  I 
^  have  seen  many  falls,  and  with  unspeakable  delight ;  but 
nothing  to  be  named  with  this.  It  would  in  parts  present 
the  image  of  them  all ;  but  all  united  would  not  supply 
a  just  idea  of  it.  It  is  better  to  see  it  than  a  thousand 
ordinary  sights  ;  they  may  revive  sleeping  emotions,  and 
80  bring  delight;  but  this  creates  new  emotion,  and  raises 
the  mind  a  step  higher  in  its  conceptions  of  the  power 
and  eternity  of  Him  whom  **to  know  is  life  eternal." 
The  day  on  which  it  is  seen  should  be  memorable  in  the 
life  of  any  man." 


•^ 


^«|' 


*' 


'# '. 


t: 


,9''>  ^i 


•  \ 


■  ■      -       -       -        .          .;-«iMfc-  ■  •  f  ^ 

f  ■     .,     .   .^^  Iff., 

TABLE  OF  DISTANCES.  !'!* 

From  Steam  Boat  landing  across  to  Chippewa,    2\  Miles. 

From  Fort  Schlosser  to  Chippewa,    -    -     .       IJ  «» 

**    Pavilion  Hotel,  to      do 2  " 

AcroRs  the  River  at  the  Falls, |  ** 

To  Goat  Island  by  the  Bridge, 58  Rods. 

Across  the  Falls  on  the  American  side,  -     -     56  ** 

Across  the  foot  of  Goat  Island,  -    -    -    -  ,^- 80  ** 

Length  of  Goat  Island, -    -  160  ** 

Across  the  Horse  Shoe  Falls,     -    -    -    -     114  ** 

Depth  of  water  at  the  Horse  Shoe,  -    -    -     20  Feet, 

Depth  of  water  at  the  Ferry, 250  " 

From  the  Eagle  Hotel  across  to  the  Pavilion  ^ 

on  the  Canada  side,  1§  miles,  viz  : 

From  the  Eagle  Hotel  to  top  of  the  bank,     -  100  Rods. 
Top  of  the  bank  down  the  Stair  Case  to  the 

River, 28  ** 

Width  ofRiver  at  the  Ferry, 76  " 

Up  the  Canada  Bank, 76  <* 

From  the  top  of  the  Bank  to  the  PaviHon,  -  256  "   .^ 

536  Rods. 

From  the  Falls  to  the  Mineral  Spring,    -    -    2  Miles, 

«*    To  the  Whirlpool,     ..---.       3  " 

*«    To  the  Devil's  Hole,  -    -    -    -*  -    -    3J  <* 


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*■'  ■ 

■    .r-  I  .  ^ 

110  TABLE    OF    DISTANCES. 

To  Erie  Canal  at  Tonawanta,     ....      11 
To  Buffalo, 22 

From  Buffalo  to  Albany,  by  canal,  -  -  -  363 
"  <*  By  stage  through  Utica,  -  -  -298 
«*        '*    By  Cherry  Valley,    -    -    -    -    284 

**        *<     To  Olean  Point, 76 

**        i«     Fredonia  and  Dunkirk,      -    -     -  45 

*«        **    Portland, 60 

"        #  Erie, 90 

«  1   "     Ashtabula, 134 

**        "     Cleveland, 188 

"        "    Columbus, 328 

<*        "    Pittsburgh  by  way  of  Erie,  -      219 

**        *'    Huron, 240 

««        *«     Sandusky, 250 

««        «»     Detroit, 310 

**        *<    Mackinaw,    -  ^^|S  -     ...    -627 
*<        "    Green  Bay,     -    -    -     -    ^    *    807 

*«        «*     Sault  St.  Mary, 707 

««        «*    Chicago, 1212 

**        "    Cincinnati, 446 

"        **    Chillicothe, 381 

From  Erie  Pa.  to  Pittsburgh, 129 

**        **     Ashtabula,     -     - 45 

From  Ashtabula  to  Wheeling,      -     -    -    -    143 
From  Cleveland  to  Pittsburgh,  ....      133 

"        «'    Zanesville, 156 

«*        *«     Sandusky, 84 

^^^'        "    Columbus, 139 

"«*        '«    Cincinnati, 252 

Ohio  Canal  from  Cleveland  to  Portsmouth,  306 

From  Sandusky  to  Cincinnati,    -    •    <-    -    21 3 

>'        "    Lou^ille,    -    -    .    -    -    -    -359 


Miles. 
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tABl.  EOF    DISTANCES.  ^      111 

J^rom  Sandusky  to  Nashville,      ....    540     Miles. 

«*        «*     St.  Louis, 517  «* 

I  ,  **        »*    New  Orleans, 1712  *' 

From  Detroit  to  Chicago  by  land,      -     -        250  ** 
From  Detroit  to  Niagara  Falls  by  land  thro'         % 

Canada. 244  «' 

f'  From  Niagara  Falls  to  Tuscarora  Village,         8  ** 

,  From  Niagara  Falls  to  Lewiston,     -     -     -     J|7  ** 

<*        "    Fort  Niagara,   -...--   14  «* 

"         "     Burlington  Bay  by  land,  ...  62  *' 

**        *'     Toronto  by  land, 107  ** 

<<         "    Toronto  by  Steam  Boat,   -     -      50  " 

"        "     Genesee  River, 94  ** 

**        "     Oswego, 154  ** 

«*        "     Sackets  Harbor, 199  ** 

*'        *'     Ogdensburgh,    i    .     -     .     .    ^264  «* 

«        "    Prescott, 265  " 

"        **    Montreal, 405  ** 

**        **    Quebec, 585  «'' 

From  Quebec  to  mouth  of  St.  Lawrence,      400  " 

*'        "     Quebec  to  Boston,    ....     484  " 

From  Montreal  to  Boston, 304  " 

*«        **    St.  Johns,        27  " 

St.  Johns  to  Whitehall,   - 150  " 

Whitehall  to  Albany, 72  *'     * 

From  Niagara  Falls  to  Lockport,     .     -     -    -  20  *  * 

'*        "    Rochester,  ^- 84  " 

*^        **     Canandaigua, 118  " 

*'        *'     Albany  by  Cher.  Val.  Turnpike,  306  *" 
"        "  .  ..N&vv,yark, .  ^ .,,...  ^  .'.%-. ,  450  . .  .  ** 

'* : 'iliAtophii:  .;  '?  '.^ ti-  ^ A  N : *  " 

.      «        '*  •  'BalfimoH;  •.'*'..-•  '.•^* •  *-•  636  •  •  " 


DISTANCES  ON  THE  ERIE  CANAL. 

To  and  firom  Albany,  Utica,  Rocliesler  and  Buflklo. 


fPmce 


Names  of  Places. 


I      Albany 

'      Troy 

Junction 

Schenectady  . . . 

Amsterdam .... 

Schoharie  Creek 

Caughnawaga  . . 

Spralier's  Basin. 
Elft  Canajoharie  .  t . 

Bowman's  Creek 

Little  Falls  .... 

Herkimer   .... 

Frankfort  .  .  *  . 

Utica 

Whitesborough . 

Oriskany  ..... 

Rome 

Smith's 

Loomis' 

Oneida  Creek  . . . 

Canastota  .^  .  . 

New  Boston  . . . 

Chittenango . . . 

Manlius  ..<... 

Orville 

i       Syracuse  .... 

Liverpool  .  .  . 


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103 

263 

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201 

354 

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240 

333 

46 

64 

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317 

53 

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217 

310 

57 

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306 

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114 

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117 

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246 

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231 

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141 

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213 

154 

44 

116 

209 

162 

52 

108 

201 

165 

55 

105 

198 

171 

61 

99 

192 

173 

63 

97 

190 

Names  of  Places. 


Nine-Mile  Creek 

Canton 

Jordan  

Weed's  Port . . . 
Port  Byron  .... 
Montezuma  . . . 

Clyde  

^ons 

Newark 

Palmyra ...... 

FuUom's  Basin  . 

Pittsford 

Rochester  <  .  .  . 

Ogden 

Adam's  Basin  .. 
Brockport  .... 

Holley 

Newport 

Portville 

Oak  Orchard. . . 

Medina 

Middleport  .... 

Lockport 

Pendleton  .... 
Tonf'twanta  . . . 
Black  Rock  . . . 
Buffalo 


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197 

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200 

90 

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206 

96 

64 

217 

107 

53 

220 

110 

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233 

123 

37 

241 

131 

29 

254 

144 

16 

260 

150 

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270 

160 

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282 

172 

12 

285 

175 

15 

290 

180 

20 

295 

185 

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305 

195 

35 

309 

199 

39 

314 

204 

44 

315 

205 

45 

321 

211 

51 

333 

223 

63 

340 

230 

70 

352 

242 

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360 

250 

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